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Conversation | 02/25/2008 12:24 pm

The Halston Chain

© AP

In honor of Paris Fashion Week, we’re talking about Halston. The American designer boldly showed his collection at Versailles 35 years ago to show the French what American fashion was like. Here at wOw, it turns out that some of us knew him — he dressed Candice Bergen for Truman Capote’s Black and White Ball, made Mary Wells’s second wedding dress and danced the nights away with Liz Smith. For the full scoop and more stories, including one by wOw’s CEO Joni Evans, read on:

My Mink Bunny Mask and Halston

By Candice Bergen

I first met Roy Halston Frowick in 1966 when he was designing hats for Bergdorf Goodman. It was the time of Truman Capote’s Black and White Ball at the Plaza Hotel across the street from Bergdorf’s, which was why I was at Halston’s borrowing a white mink bunny mask and a white mink-trimmed black velvet strapless gown that he designed. It had been rejected by another more discriminating girl about town. And so it fell to me. I returned it the next day.

Halston was terribly intimidating to me, but I got some wonderful pieces from him that I wore constantly. Elegant. Casual. Sexy. Then I went to Rio for carnival and Liza Minnelli was there performing. She had a trunk of Halston (she wore nothing else) and an 11x14 notebook of beautiful pen and ink sketches by Joe Eula, that was essentially an instruction book of what to wear with what. The Peretti pendants. The Peretti belts. The soft kid clutches. The strappy spindly sandals. The shawls. A notebook of outfits that were fantastic. I was in heaven. Such a thing to have!!

Liza loaned me a great-looking metallic gold dress that I wore to a party that night. Very swanky. Years later, Halston gave me an indigo sequin caftan when I needed something for a dinner at the White House, and then, also, a fantastic camouflage sequin sheath that I wore to the Film Festival in Tehran. Very glam. I was much thinner then. Much. And I don’t go to those events anymore. And neither does Halston.

 

How I Changed Halston’s Life

By Mary Wells

The first dress that Halston ever sold was my wedding dress. Roy Halston Frowick was an unhappy milliner at Bergdorf Goodman. He hated hats but he made wonderful hats. I never wore hats, but one day Jo Hughes, Bergdorf’s fashion stylist, brought Roy and his hats into my tiny dressing room and introduced us. He stared at me and I stared at all those hats. I put one on and looked so silly that we both had to laugh. In that tiny dressing room, we became friends and he told me that he hated hats and how much he wanted to become a dress designer. I told him about my wedding to Harding Lawrence, which was going to be in Paris.

Hubert Givenchy, who was an old friend, had designed a wonderful dress for the wedding gala, but I needed something lovely to get married in and I also needed dresses for my two very little girls. As I had been married before, I wasn’t imagining anything white or "fairy tale." Halston — he kept reminding me of his preferred name — stuck a green velvet hat that he had been holding under my chin, took out a big black crayon and designed my dress in seconds. An iconic Halston dress, it was impeccably simple, clean as a whistle, yet alluring. Jo Hughes brought everybody important at the store around to see the designs and Halston went on to sketch miniatures of the dress for my little girls. “You may have changed his life,” Jo said with pins in her teeth. It was dark "holiday green" velvet.

I pursuaded Harding to use him to design the replacements for Emilio Pucci’s uniforms on Braniff, and we had a spectacular gala in Acapulco with Halston and all the models of the moment.

Read more about: Fashion, Halston, Style

27 Reader Comments (so far…) Sign In or Register to comment

Buh-Bye Hillary Hillary Buh-Bye
Loved the piece too. It was a singular era. Halston was also responsible for Jackie’s iconic pillbox hat even though Oleg Cassini was her designer of record at the time. A sidebar on Oleg. I went to a girl’s priory school where the Sister who was also the art teacher was in charge of dress and deportment. In her art room was a small pix of the pope, a slightly larger one of Jesus and a poster of Jackie. She was in fact running a secret cult of Jackie. We even wore Oleg Cassini designed uniforms with smart little berets and pearl necklaces tucked in. (I used this as a subplot element in my novel today.) We were children but we loved Jackie and that whole NYC scene, including Diana Vreeland on whom Kay Thompson’s (actress and also author of Eloise series) character was based in “Funny Face” starring Audrey Hepburn. There was manners, flair, wit and real chic. We wanted to jump horses, speak French and paint watercolors like Jackie. We knew not to walk loudly on our heels because Diana Vreeland said she’d fire anyone at Vogue who did so. Now who do girls emulate? Paris, Brittany. Fashion is important because it reflects the time, but it can also lead them….as Jackie proved. Two million Parisians were out in the streets screaming Viva Jacqui and waving US flags on her 1961 trip there. After only three months in the White House she became the light at the top of the world in part because of her fashion sense. People behave better when they are well dressed. Audrey Hepburn said that because she had no film training, costumes allowed her to act the parts. And her mother said that Funny Face was the film most like her because she was more about fashion than she was about film, or dancing. Even a contemporary Gap Commercial is simply a clip of Audrey Hepburn dancing from the 1957 Funny Face…over a half century old and still fresh. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Di5XPllM18 Today’s designers like Cynthia Rowley still look to Audrey and Jackie for inspiration. So yes, more pieces like this please.
By Buh-Bye Hillary Hillary Buh-Bye on 03/23/2008 5:03 am
Mugsy Peabody
I live in jeans, basically, and Italian loafers, and no one would ever think I secretly watch Project Runway, but one of my favorite people in the world is a girlie-girl fashion designer, and I have so much respect and admiration for her work. (http://www.hollybadgley.com) I haven’t worn a dress since I discovered what happened to Joan of Arc when she was forced to wear a dress in prison. But I have to say fashion is very interesting, and I find it totally amazing to read what those who have the privilege of playing in that arena have to say. I think everyone should watch The Devil Wears Prada, because it’s such a wonderful window into that world. Plus Annie Hathaway and the Marvelous Ms. Streep are so great together. I love it that Mary Wells’ dream car is a Bentley. Luxury is very interesting, what we dream for ourselves IF WE LET OURSELVES DREAM! I personally dream in a different way, because things really aren’t where it’s at for me. But I love harmony and beautiful things, and fashion is one of the ways that plays out in the world, just like the only way most straight american boys let themselves go in that direction is around vintage cars and car customizing. One thing great about this website is that it’s really okay to talk about all of what we are, from whatever platform we find ourselves on. So, my dream for next year as that these women take me along to Paris and I write about it from my point of view. That could be a hoot. Candice?
By Mugsy Peabody on 03/26/2008 2:25 am
Reasonable Rita
Always a fan of Halston, this was a big all day sweetie for me..such good descriptions and observations. I have never worn anything that grand, but I would love to~~I miss Halston and I miss his way of making women look like women with style and grace to boot~~ Thank You and keep the goodie bag open~~ A fan for long ~~
By Reasonable Rita on 03/30/2008 3:45 pm
darla kai  blake
Ms. Noonan, where have you been all my life? I have become a complete fan in the past months (Wall Street Journal) and now I am reading your comments about the movies. My joy is a great movie, if not great at least something that pokes its head above the money. Thanks for some sanity and a loud (but silent) “Boy, she got that right!” dk blake
By darla kai blake on 04/05/2008 1:47 pm
Vicki Carroll
I am stunned that those whose presence on this planet (or, simply interest) was preceded by the influence of Halston, would be so rude as to shush those kind enough to share their experience of him with us. If you aren’t interested in a topic, move on, and find something else on the site which is of interest to you. I find these remembrances fascinating - I was an avid sewer in my teens and twenties, and was fascinated by the fashion of the day (I am now 54) - I never could afford anything Halston, other than patterns and cologne, but I am grateful for the influence he had on our culture at that time. That influence is still felt in today’s fashion, and much of what he designed was truly classic. I no longer swoon for fashion as I did when I was younger - other things have dominated my attention for so long, I have more or less forgotten to care much at all about it. Nonetheless, it is simply delightful to see this little slice of personal history, from the generous founders of this site. This site has such a rich potential, and is already beginning to show it - I hope we can all grow to appreciate that there may be facets which don’t appeal to all, but they are there for those who find them fascinating and delightful. This is not only a site for mothers and housewives, or for actors or journalists, or for authors and professors; it is for all women, and the potential for all women to embrace the totality of a site which has the potential hold the dreams and interests of all women is here, if we allow it to. Please pardon my rant, but it borders on ungrateful to judge the enthusiastic submissions of those who founded the site. We do need, by the way, to find a term for them, if there is not already one. Hostesses is not right at all, founders makes them sound very old. Probably another thread is the place for that discussion, tho. Thank you, thank you, thank you, for this wonderful site and all that it will become!
By Vicki Carroll on 04/10/2008 4:42 pm
Ms. Dee
Mentors? Generators? Creatriae? Whattayou guys want us to call you? I remember at the height of my feminist rage, even the word “fellowship” set my teeth on edge, so I invented “gal-boat” to describe the difference. I like gal-boat. This site gives me great gal-boat.
By Ms. Dee on 04/13/2008 9:17 pm
No GOP
Vicki, Beautifully said. If the silly philistines wish to polish their guns and engorge on Big Macs, give me fashion!
By No GOP on 04/23/2008 11:52 am
beatriz m
Fashion, glamour, refinement, you name it… It’s fun to read, also interesting, and has has nothing to do with going shopping and being able to afford this or that. Please drop the “offended” style and enjoy. Halston was a very well known designer, Studio 54 a rather infamous place in New York … even I know that and I’ve never lived in America. You see, I’m from Southamerica but I do read.
By beatriz m on 04/23/2008 1:11 pm
J G
One beloved piece of clothing from the 1970s was an ecru tone-on-tone blouse made of silky fabric that was woven in a pattern of tiny, shiny H’s alternating with matte ones. I had very little money but what I had went to buy my own Halston blouse! It was heaven.
By J G on 04/23/2008 1:29 pm
Gianna Bracco
Loved the reminiscences of the ladies …. I always enjoy hearing about the human angle of a story. My wardrobe mainly consists of workout clothes and jeans, but the piece wasn’t actually “fashion,” but human, and that interests me. I just returned home from Wal-Mart; that’s bad enough, don’t need to discuss the experience in detail, and, BTW, would be freaked out by a classy lady such as Candice Bergen telling me the deal she got on toilet paper! I live in my real world with a lot of not so good stuff going on, but no one’s going to take away my dreams. Anyway, let me know if you ever find a group of women at your local Wal-Mart who could cough up big bucks to start a site like this. Of course they have had different experiences than most of us, and I, for one, thank God for that. If every moment of my day was devoted to only relevant tasks, causes, and reading material, I would go crazy! P.S. Princess Grace — you remind me a lot of Suzanne de Cornelia. Have you gone undercover?
By Gianna Bracco on 04/23/2008 3:37 pm
beth willis
I think Suzanne has become “rein”. Ladies, thank you. This bumpkin from Cowtown knows nothing of fashion but will forever be intrigued by personal revelations of first hand knowledge of the facts and foibles of the famous and infamous. I particularly enjoyed reading of your leisure time since Hillary and Barack have made us all so testy…is that possible. Could I have some “mo”, please?
By beth willis on 04/23/2008 5:51 pm
Adla Coure
I really enjoyed reading this conversation. Such elegance, beauty and class! Halston is iconic as are the women whose conversations we have the pleasure of reading. This is such a unique website and the conversations are amazing - I can say that I would be happy to read such conversations again and again…
By Adla Coure on 05/29/2008 1:24 am