Candice Bergen | 04/20/2009 11:00 pm
Candice Bergen: The Silver Palate and the Potential Peril
In response to: What is your favorite cookbook of all time? Do you remember any special recipe you love from it?
I wish I had a joke here but all I have is Silver Palate. There was a time when all I would use was the Silver Palate cookbooks. We all did. There was something comforting about them, plus they had recipes even an idiot could make, which, for me, was crucial. We spent every summer in the ’80s in France in the country, where we always ate in, so our Silver Palate
was frayed and grease- and tomato-stained and half the pages were hanging out and we all had favorite recipes in it. We always had a huge zucchini surplus in the garden, so I made a lot of zucchini bread. I liked a couscous recipe with chicken and prunes that was something I actually enjoyed making. It was a festive, fun cookbook that didn’t intimidate. That mattered to me as I saw the kitchen as a place of potential peril.

























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Ha! I love it. In 52 years of marriage I am still a nervous cook whose recipes never turn out quite as they should, although I’ve never killed anybody with my cooking. My husband, on the other hand has a real talent for cooking, & with imagination, as well. I can bake, but of course, we now try to steer clear of the desserts. I never used Silver Palate, but Betty Crocker has gotten a lot of play with me. I do regard the new prepared or partially prepared foods on the market, "cheating".
For me there are two. "Dundee Cookery Book" which floated around our house as long as I remember. Mum didn’t use it…she was the ‘pinch of this’, ‘dab of that’ cook but she had owned a copy of this book since her childhood then, when I went to Secondary School it was the Domestic Science (U.S. Home Ec) ‘bible’ so I’ve had my copy over fifty years. It and the Betty Crocker are my ‘go-to’ books for comfort foods. Not that I need to use them, now, but for some reason on a wet, windy winter’s day there is something nostalgic and warming to getting either of those books down for the dinner recipes. When I first got the Crocker book, though, I was just young and arrogant enough to "Hmmpph! I don’t THINK so!" I was nineteen years old, in Scotland and having just become engaged to my late husband…an American. Of course I hadn’t met his family, they didn’t know me from Adam but when he wrote his parent’s of our engagement his mother sent me the Crocker book almost by return mail. In the arrogance of my youth I was annoyed that she surely thought I wouldn’t be able to cook for and feed her son! This was somewhat heightened when "son" told me this was his mother’s favourite and only recipe book. We remained in Scotland for a further couple of years, the book never used. I had my own! Then I came to the U.S. Back then I found I couldn’t find many of the ingredients listed in my Scottish book so did turn to Betty Crocker and, through the years, she became my best friend…lolol. Oh…as did my MIL…and I found that many of the recipes I turned to were, indeed, MIL’s own favourites. Each time we would visit on leave, be it from another State or on our return from postings overseas, she always would make my favourite recipes of hers from that very book; Chicken Fried Steak, fried potatoes, okra and pan-style country gravy followed by coconut cream pie. It was the one meal I loved yet never made myself because I had already learned that for some reason, when another makes a recipe becoming my favourite (as my own mother did) I could never replicate them no matter how I tried. I really do believe it was the love they put into them made the difference…or maybe it was just me, tasting the love they weren’t even aware was their best ingredient! :)
Through the years I’ve become an adventurous cook…anything I see in a magazine, my large collection of all sorts and nationalities of cooking and my very worst habit has been to choose a brand new recipe when having friends or colleagues for dinner. People are shocked, asked how I dare and it took me a long time to figure out why I would do such a risky thing. The only thing I came up with is this…sometimes even the tried and true recipes just don’t come out their best and then what? But when I make something totally new I don’t worry. If it works…great! If it doesn’t or just doesn’t taste or look as it ought, I can make an honest apology and say "Oh, dear…I’ve never made this before but it looked/sounded so interesting!" and my hair shirt gets to stay in the closet!
There was another one by those authors. Can’t remember the name. I used it but there was always some wacky ingredient that was challenging to find. at 3 in the afternoon. Great illustrations in that book, though. The name Julie Russo comes to mind.
I have a friend who is devoted to the Cheddar Cheese soup in the Betty Crocker book. It is wonderful.
My turn-to cookbook is The Fannie Farmer Cookbook. I originally had the small paperback Tenth Edition - completely revised by Wilma Lord Perkins, which I purchased shortly after graduating from the University of Miami (1972). In 1996, the hardback edition celebrating the 100th Anniversary of "America’s Great Classic" by Marion Cunningham was published, so I decided treated myself to that edition since I had gotten Barnes & Noble gift card for my birthday. When I told my Dad about buying the newest edition, he asked which one I was replacing. When I told him which one it was, he asked if I would send him my old paperback copy, since his copy had fallen completely to pieces. I did, of course, but not before going through each one, bookmarking my favorite recipes in the new cookbook, and in some instances, making photocopies from the 10th edition that didn’t make it into the latest edition.
Julia Child’s Mastering the Art of French Cooking. My late brother-in-law bought it for his mother 40 years ago, and she, a good, plain, unimaginative Italian cook, promptly gave it to me.
I learned to make my own croissants before I learned to bake a loaf of bread.
I made quiche lorraine from the crust up, before you could buy them frozen at the Piggly-Wiggly.
I made something with chicken livers that was divine!
Coq au vin.
People — I WAS 20!
This terrific book, somewhat outdated, like Madeline Grey’s The Normal Woman, helped me out at a time when I had many questions I would not have dreamed of asking my mother. And to which she would not, I suspect, have had answers.
Oh, yes; I can still make a mean Chicken Kiev, a la Julia!