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Margo Howard | 06/17/2009 7:00 am

Fear and Loathing in the Dining Room, by Margo Howard

The ‘anti-Martha’ has a few kitchen confessions to make
Margo Howard

Editor’s Note: A longtime journalist, Margo Howard went into the family business (her mother was the fabled Ann Landers) in the 1990s as Dear Prudence. Her broad experience and understanding of human nature provide answers for the troubled — and entertainment for everyone else. Margo’s advice column, Dear Margo, appears twice a week — on Thursdays and Fridays — on wowOwow.com.

It would not be too strong a statement to say that I am the anti-Martha. I have no desire to make place cards from pinecones or sprinkle edible gold on gingerbread people. What in the world is wrong with her that she needs to make everything? And where does she get all that time, anyway? To be perfectly candid, I am loathe to entertain – the reason being there is just no end of things that can go wrong. “Party on” was never my motto. Au contraire, entertaining for me is like Outward Bound. Dinner guests make me exceedingly nervous. OK, they terrify me. I have, in fact, been so rattled on the few occasions when I’ve said come onna my house that I have forgotten people’s names.

I also feel incapable of having the green beans ready at the same time as the roast, and I don’t know how to figure out how many heads of lettuce it takes to make salad for ten. And then there’s the problem of menu planning. I have no nutritional information, having grown up thinking a balanced diet was a cookie in each hand. My confidence level as a hostess hovers around zero. The only thing I’ve ever felt comfortable with is setting the table … maybe because it has a pristine, festive air, and no food is involved. Not to put too fine a point on it, you’ll never find me in the Homemade Bread wing of the Betty Ford Clinic.

I have long imagined that every woman but me knew how to put together a company dinner with one hand tied behind her back while playing chess and mapping a treasure hunt. This mistaken notion was blessedly shot down when a girlfriend e-mailed me a
hostess horror story. (She’d let her granddaughter “turn on” the oven and the kid turned it to “clean,” thereby locking in and atomizing the hens therein.) It was with a feeling of sisterhood rather than glee that I was hearing about this. Dear Goddess, it wasn’t just me!

I’m sure you are way more accomplished than I, and I salute you. Let’s put it this way: if I were to plan a July 4th party, I would have to begin now. And of course I would see to it that all the food was meant to be served was cold.

131 Reader Comments (so far…) Sign In or Register to comment

EKA -
Phyllis, get that stuff out and use it ! Are you planning to take it with you ? I thought not. Why deprive yourself the tactile pleasure of fine china and crystal, aren’t you as good as any company ? The last time I was in Ireland I brought home a beautiful  Beleek Tea Pot and 2 mugs and I use it every morning for my breakfast, and why not ? Who the hell am I saving it for ?  And if it breaks, so what …. as I said, you can’t take it with you. Even if your husband is making hot dogs & beans, fine china does wonders for it. Have a glass of wine, light a candle and you’re in business.
By EKA - on 06/17/2009 3:09 pm
phyllis Doyle Pepe
That "stuff" is sitting in my antique china closet begging to be used. And you are right. What am I saving it for? My children have their own "stuff" and the precious 19th century china from Austria from my grandmother will, I’m sure, not give anybody a thrill. I have taken out some of the pieces and am using them, but I heed your advice. From this day forward elegance with hot dogs and beans––my stuff will be so pleased. they are smiling already––"She’s gonna use us, she’s finally gonna use us!"
By phyllis Doyle Pepe on 06/17/2009 4:09 pm
georgia fatwood
Dear Phyllis…my stuff "talks", too…..a lot of it is muttering right now…."Oh, damn, is she putting you in the down-sizing sale, too?" Meantime the "A" list goodies are getting a real workout! 
By georgia fatwood on 06/17/2009 6:47 pm
joanne in jax

 Also, everything tastes better when using the "wedding" (some 35 years ago and long over) silver flatware.  I, too, have gotten to the stage in life where "what am I waiting for?" has become my mantra.  Whether I’m dining alone - especially, when dining alone,  I always use the ‘good’ stuff and often even light candles.  Even ice cream tastes better - if that’s possible - out of a bone china bowl with a sterling silver spoon.  There is great pleasure in treating oneself so well.  

By joanne in jax on 06/20/2009 10:04 am
Sam Mirando

"I don’t want to serve up any meals for anybody other than my husband and me"

 Does that mean that I can’t come for lunch anymore?  Waaaaahhhhhh!!!!

By Sam Mirando on 06/18/2009 8:18 pm
Dana Pulley
I too am multi-talented, and like Martha used to do EVERYTHING; perfect meals, place settings, centerpieces, etc. Then I noticed my guests seemed uncomfortable, and started making excuses to not come over. Once I analyzed the conumdrum, I realized I was putting too effort into the prep, and not enough in my guests. I dumped the Martha persona, and once again my guests and I laugh, talk and even cry over topics at hand. If the dinner is a little scorched, we’re fine. After all, an evening together is about friends and family, NOT the setting. C’mon over Margo, and I promise I’ll not make porcelain rose place card holders a la Capodimonte/Martha Stewart.
By Dana Pulley on 06/17/2009 10:03 am
Margo Howard
I’m there!
By Margo Howard on 06/17/2009 10:23 am
Barbara
Hilarious article but I’m not there with you.  I loved watching the old Martha Stewart shows.  Not the ones now where it’s all studio audience and celebrity guests, but the ones where she showed how to make very complicated and beautiful things.  I taped and watched every single show.  I love to entertain.  To me the decorations in my house are my friends.  I love to cook and (when I can) I make great meals.  I work full time and travel a lot so not nearly as much time as I’d like for it.  Cooking is very calming to me.  And baking…I just adore it.  Turning out a fancy tart or a beautiful, over-the-top cake.  That’s my definition of fun.  So, Margo, I’d love to have you over.  I don’t care if my friends reciprocate.  Many reciprocate in other ways, whatever they are best at, whether it’s telling a great story or retrieving my kids from school or having us over for an order-in pizza.  We all have our gifts and share them in our own ways.
By Barbara on 06/17/2009 10:37 am
Susan Crawford

I was, at one time, sucked in by the Dominatrix of Domesticity, and I have the dried hydrangea wreaths, the acorn napkin rings, the sadly evaporated bottles of imported Barbados vanilla and the hot glue gun burn scars to prove it. The most liberating moment of my life? The day I bundled my collection of Martha Stewart Living magazines into the back of my car and donated the whole shebang to a local nursing home, where - I sincerely hope - the residents had a good laugh at Ms. Stewart’s obsessive/compulsive "homekeeping".

I also recall an episode of her TV show where she was demonstrating how to plant an asparagus patch. Martha was perched on the side of a trench about 18 inches deep and twenty yards long, a shovel picturesquely by her side. Yep, that’s exactly what you do when you want to plant asparagus. You dig deep. We had asparagus when I was a kid, and digging the beds was something brutal. But there was Martha - not a bead of sweat bedewing her brow. (I am certain that off camera lurked the crew of industrious, large-bicepped guys who actually dug that trench. And I’ll bet they were mopping THEIR brows, all right!) But I also know that immediately after that show aired, thousands of deluded Martha-ites rushed out to replicate her perfect asparagus patch - and ended up in the chiropractor’s office trying to get their back to work again.

 

By Susan Crawford on 06/17/2009 10:40 am
Margo Howard
Mention of the asparagus reminds me of years ago when I was working in a political campaign in Illinois. The candidate’s wife and I stopped at her father-in-law’s farm. It was the end of summer and we went to the garden to see what was left. It was the first time I had seen peas growing. (I was a city kid.) "My God," I told her, "they come in envelopes!" She responded that I was as dumb as her college roommate who, when seeing a field of asparagus said, "Look at that! I always thought Cook braided it!"
By Margo Howard on 06/17/2009 11:00 am
Debbie Learman
chuckling here…now, all Martha does is open her cheque-book for all her idea people, etc…I had quit watching Martha way b4 she went to prison, because….this still makes me gag…they were filming in her separate catering kitchen, and on the super-long counter-top…amongst all the beautiful fancy desserts, wove her long-haired white *nasty* cat…and because of the bright lights, you could actually see the hairs falling off the cat onto the food as she sashayed around them……*YUCK*…that was it for me!  *I decided to watch her when I was confined to bed, and noticed…Martha also does NOT always wash her hands b4 touching the food, after touching birds, cats, dogs even now in her episodes..and lately, she had been constantly pushing aside her hair…maybe she is growing it out?…and then touching food….eeewwwwwww…I wrote her a note to please either cut her hair, spray it stiff, or whatever it takes…to stop constantly pushing it off to the side…sometimes ya juss gotta speak yer mind! ;o)
By Debbie Learman on 06/17/2009 12:05 pm
Deena B.
amongst all the beautiful fancy desserts, wove her long-haired white *nasty* cat

I take it you are not a cat person?  Mind you, I do draw the line at having a cat weaving it’s way around my food.  But calling the cat "nasty" seems a bit harsh.  In the interest of time when filming a TV show, it’s probably difficult to stop every couple of minutes to wash your hands.  In real life I would hope she would, though.  And does anyone actually eat that food anyway?

By Deena B. on 06/17/2009 3:32 pm
Debbie Learman

I don’t expect Martha to ever cook for me…and on the TV shows, she went from the animal right to the cooking, and yes, I expect her to wash her hands after touching , say, a bird, and then handle boiled eggs! whether I am eating the food or not…she is in the public "eye" and has to be clean! I said nasty, re: her cat, as walking amongst the foods is a "nasty" habit! and she was NOT cooking during the time the cat was on the counter, but the food was going to a catered event after the taping, so yes! I do have a problem w/the cat on the counter!  no, I am not a cat person, as I am severly allergic to them, but, I do enjoy pictures and videos of them and the cute stuff they do….getting on counter-tops is never cute IMHO!

By Debbie Learman on 06/17/2009 6:44 pm
Deena B.

If you will re-read my post, Debbie, I did specifically say that I draw the line at having cats weaving their way amongst my food (before, during or after it’s preparation).  So…IMHO also that is a strict no no.  I’m not at all sure why she would think that was a good idea.  We are in agreement on that.  So do, please, settle down.  But if you will re-read your own post, you will see that you specifically called the cat nasty - not the habit. 

I have always suspected, but did not know, that the food prepared on these programs went to waste.  Since they do not always have time to actually prepare and then cook it during the program, they often show it’s preparation and then have a finished product already completed.  It’s probably good if it does not go to waste but, no, I would not care to partake of it either.

By Deena B. on 06/17/2009 7:41 pm
Chrome Toe

"I am certain that off camera lurked the crew of industrious, large-bicepped guys who actually dug that trench."

Now THAT woudl be gardening i could get into lol…

By Chrome Toe on 06/17/2009 12:18 pm