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Q & A | 09/14/2009 4:00 am

'I Was a Miserable Overweight Person': A Q & A With Frank Bruni, by Julia Reed

The former New York Times restaurant critic dishes about his weight, his sexuality — and his favorite Manhattan restaurant.
Frank Bruni/Image: Soo-Jeong Kang

I first encountered Frank Bruni when we were both covering George W. Bush’s first presidential race in 1999 and 2000 – he for The New York Times, and me, far less regularly, for Vogue and Newsweek. In his wonderful new memoir, Born Round: The Secret History of a Full-time Eater, he points out that the campaign coincided with – indeed, contributed to – one of his most overweight periods. But that’s not what I remember about him. I remember a generous, funny, fun-loving colleague who was great company on the road, and always good for a much-needed drink or two at the end of a very long day. Later, after Bush was elected and we both covered his first European tour (I was profiling Condoleezza Rice for Vogue), he seriously saved me. There had been a small dinner with Condi and only three journalists. I was one of them, but the code her press secretary used to issue the secret invitations was so arcane that I somehow missed it. The next day on the plane, Frank walked – and talked – me through every aspect of the evening, quoting Condi’s personal stories almost verbatim so that I could weave the gist of this intimate off-the-record evening into my own story. He was – and is – a complete gent, and when I read about his family in this book, I understand why. Now he is also an extremely svelte gent. I read about that with great interest, too – for few among us haven’t struggled with at least some of the weight and body-image issues that Frank has. Anyway, the book is completely charming, just like its author, so without further adieu, I will let him speak for himself.

"Being very fat isn't the worst thing in the world, and it isn't necessarily a recipe for unhappiness. But it made me really unhappy."

JULIA: I have to say, you’ve got a great title and you’ve got a great opener on the very first page: "I was a baby bulimic." It sounds almost apocalyptic, but I know it’s true. As a toddler, you ate two hamburgers, and when your mother refused you a third, you promptly threw up.

FRANK: The story came from her because, obviously, that’s not something I would remember, since I was 18 months old. That’s why she was so appalled. But she always told that story – I think because she thought it was in equal measures amusing and scary. It was also the moment that she realized she had an extraordinarily big appetite on her hands.

JULIA: When you were little, didn’t that story embarrass the hell out of you?

FRANK: I guess it really did. But it was so, you know, so freakish that it didn’t even seem real.

JULIA: And, as you say, you couldn’t even remember it.

FRANK: You know, it embarrassed me, Julia, but in a weird way it also comforted me because it was like an explanation. I mean, I knew I had a really big appetite and a problem controlling my eating, and when I would hear that story there was part of it that was embarrassing. But there was another part of it that was like, "Well, OK, see? It’s not a failure of will. This is the way I was made."

JULIA: I totally get it. And your mother sounds very much like mine. I love the part where she is fixing platters of egg salad and tuna salad sandwiches for the guys raking the leaves in the yard.

FRANK: Yeah, my mother loved doing that. She was the consummate hostess.

JULIA: And she sounds completely charming.

FRANK: I was really lucky. With my metabolism, I was not lucky, but with my family I was triply lucky, and it more than made up for it.

20 Reader Comments (so far…) Sign In or Register to comment

E .

"I was really lucky. With my metabolism, I was not lucky, but with my family I was triply lucky, and it more than made up for it."

Frank you are so lucky to have been born into that family - and they to have you.  Your book is on my list.  It would be surreal but delicious to have Eric Ripert approach my table and later wringing his hands in anticipation of my review of his food. 

Cent’anni!

By E . on 09/14/2009 9:17 am
phyllis Doyle Pepe

When I think of Frank Bruni, I think of his, "Ambling into History", his book about Bush and the legacy thereof. I really liked that book and after looking for more Frank Bruni’s in the Times. 

 

By phyllis Doyle Pepe on 09/14/2009 9:31 am
phyllis Doyle Pepe
Some food for thought: Forgot to tell the two food lovers above how much I enjoyed this interview. I have often thought how food can be a metaphor for love. Having experienced more of a European way of eating I was overwhelmed when first encountering my husband’s Italian family’s mode of indulging. Great bowls of everything, large over flowing platters, and in the kitchen overweight aunts, little bitty aunts,  and the men with as much skill as the women in preparing the food–-especially the fish. And speaking of the men––where in Frank’s life was his father? No mention of him at all. 
By phyllis Doyle Pepe on 09/14/2009 10:14 am
Lena B
This was a great interview Julia.  I thoroughly enjoyed learning about Frank Bruni’s life and work.  The Masa sounds like my kind of sushi bar!  And I would love to be indoctrinated into the large style Italian family feast with 20 at the table, food and wine flowing.  I never had a weight problem but I’m not underweight either.  Like Frank, I try to stay active.  Walking has really helped me maintain a normal weight; I love swimming too but it’s been a while.  Continued success Frank.
By Lena B on 09/14/2009 12:16 pm
J Holmes
Loved reading the interview.
By J Holmes on 09/14/2009 7:23 pm
barbara taylor
A wonderful interview Julia.  And I cant’ wait to pick up your book, Frank.  Every line about your family resonated with me.  I had a mother who loved to feed us, and it wasn’t until I read this article that I realized how much I’m like her in this department (Acutally, in every department, but that’s a different matter).  Frank, when you wrote, "What was not acceptable was running out," I realized that’s exactly what was in my mind when I threw a book party for a friend of mine last week.  No one went home hungry.  There was food for days!  As I planned the menu, I could hear my mother saying, "It’s better to have too much than not enough."  Thanks for sharing your struggles and your family with us. 
By barbara taylor on 09/15/2009 8:51 am
kermie b

This interview brought back memories of my brother’s wedding over 30 years ago.  He married a traditional Italian woman, from a very traditional family, a situation I had never run into before (I was 18 at the time). 

I will never forget meeting the family the day before the wedding for an "informal meal," after a long trip.  Traveling always gives me stomach problems; I have a history of ulcers and GERD, from a very young age.   It was an incredible spread at a long table with a lot of lovely new people to meet.  I ate some food and stopped to let it settle.  The mother-in-law immediately asked me what was wrong.  I said nothing was wrong, I was full.  She got very upset, and after some time, the table was cleared.  I asked my sister who was sitting next to me why the mother-in-law was upset, and she told me "Those were just the appetizers."  My mouth dropped.

There were two more courses of food and desserts, plural.  I pretended to nibble, left all the food that was pressed on me, on the plate, and drank a lot of water, trying to socialize and keep far away from the amazingly skinny mother-in-law.  I was determined not to make myself sick just to please her.  I recall thinking how rude I thought the situation was, and, in turn, how rude they thought I was being by not eating.  I was sick to my stomach the entire weekend from anxiety and couldn’t wait to leave and get back to college.

I have since met other traditional families, of many ethnic backgrounds, who went without during the Depression, and expressed "love" by forcing food on me.  I get the concept, I get it, I get it.  I have gone through lean times when I lived on carrots and friends’ garden offerings because I could not afford groceries.  I still don’t understand a culture so obsessed with making me feel guilty about not eating excessive amounts of food—please do not be insulted, anyone—but I have rights too.  

By kermie b on 09/15/2009 11:47 am
Susan Crawford

What a terrific interview! Frank Bruni seems to me to be every interviewer’s dream interviewee: smart, insightful, funny, and perceptive AND someone who revels in and uses language in a truly entertaining manner.

Food, family and love - what a devil’s triangle! Bruni came through his childhood and adolescence with what seems to me to be an almost uncanny, innate knowledge of the delicate maneuverings an overweight child has to master to forge ahead and cope with life and all it’s many twists and turns. Fortunately, Bruni made it through, retained his deep and abiding love for his family, kept his own sense of self, and continued to treasure the experience of fine food. His sense of humor - a great gift - shines through without in any way minimizing the real sadness of being overweight at a young age.

And kermie b, I read your post with a sense of deja vu. In my family, having a "groaning board" to set before guests was not just a metaphor - my mother was never happy until there was not a square inch left on any flat surface in the dining room that was left uncovered by something edible! And my dad beamed as guests went back for seconds and - bless their hearts - thirds, basking in the reflected glory of my mother’s exquisite cooking. Woe unto my girlfriends who were not the solid trencherpersons capable of downing that third helping of roast beef and Yorkshire pudding! Oh, the shame when yet another guest fell down on the job and bypassed a second heaping serving of lasagna! And I think, yes, it did spring from the Depression, from rationing and post-war austerity. Looking back, I also see that this was the mindset that made it so hard for me to understand how appetite and satiety work. My inner "works" were pretty jammed up with all those ginormous meals. It has taken me years to understand what constitutes a perfectly acceptable serving of food, and to listen to my body when it cries, "Hold! Enough!" Now when I go out to eat with friends, I often hear, "Is that ALL you’re eating? You hardly touched your food … " It is disconcerting, and yes, it is often guilt-inducing. But I just ask the server to bag the remainder, and I can enjoy another meal the next day without risking stomach aches and digestive dilemmas. And it isn’t particular ethnicities that are wont to lay this "Eat! Eat!" trip on us. It goes back, simply, to the food is love, love is food equation.

Again, what a wonderful interview this was - Bruni is sheer delight, and I look forward to reading what seems to be a marvelous memoir.

By Susan Crawford on 09/15/2009 9:47 pm
b hillman

What a wonderful interview.  I will miss Frank Bruni’s restaurant reviews. I like knowing more about him as a person and will definitely read his book.

Bill Hillman

By b hillman on 09/16/2009 8:01 am
Dianne Lopp
 In her first question to Mr. Bruni, didn’t Julia Reed mean "apocryphal" rather than "apocalyptic"?  Again, I reiterate than I love wowowow and I think Ms. Reed is a wonderful writer, but please edit!
By Dianne Lopp on 09/16/2009 3:01 pm
phyllis Doyle Pepe
Julia was correct in using apocalyptic as an adjective modifying it.
By phyllis Doyle Pepe on 09/17/2009 1:17 pm
Dianne Lopp
I am sorry, Ms. Pepe, but you are incorrect.  Please see the definitions of both words:  "Apocaplyptic" means having to do with with the end of the world.  "Apocryphal" means that which may not be factually true.  I do believe that Ms. Reed meant to use "apocryphal".
By Dianne Lopp on 09/17/2009 2:36 pm
phyllis Doyle Pepe
You may be correct, Dianne, but perhaps she meant by the title of Bruni’s book that it was somehow apocalyptic? At least that’s how I read it. Wish we could ask her. But thanks for pointing it out––love these kinds of word mysteries.
By phyllis Doyle Pepe on 09/17/2009 5:25 pm
Dianne Lopp
Thank you for the gracious spirit in which you have received my posts.  I will ask you to look at the quote in question again.  Ms. Reed is not referring to the title when she uses the adjective "apocaplyptic"; she is referencing a sentence on the first page of the book that, when read, sounds almost too funny and clever to be true. Therefore, apocryphal.   I love word mysteries too but I do not like the misuse of words——and, believe me, I make tons of mistakes myself.   All writers need editors;  I truly believe Ms. Reed made an error——"apocalyptic" simply does not make sense in the sentence.  When sentences don’t make sense, they are ineffective.
By Dianne Lopp on 09/17/2009 5:39 pm
phyllis Doyle Pepe

You know, Dianne, I think you’re right. I went back and re-read it and the words following our word in question, I know it’s true, would support your case. So if I could high five you, I would, and say, let’s drink to that! 

I used to think the power of words

was inexhaustible,

That how we said the world was how it was, and how it would be.

I used to imagine that word-sway

and word-thunder

Would silence the Silence and all that,

That words were the Word,

That language could lead us inexplicably to grace,

As though it were geographical.

I used to think these things when I was young.

I still do.

––-Charles Wright 

 

By phyllis Doyle Pepe on 09/17/2009 6:03 pm