This is one of my favorite spring menus. Shellfish is at its best, I love lamb with spring peas and mint and the weather is finally warm enough to be thinking of ice cream.

The lamb dish is from Frank Stitt’s fabulous new book, Frank Stitt’s Bottega Favorita: A Southern Chef’s Love Affair with Italian Food. (Frank’s Highlands Bar and Grill in Birmingham received a 2009 James Beard nomination as best restaurant in the nation, but lost out Monday night to Jean-Georges. Now, I like Jean-Georges, but I’d rather be in any of Frank’s three fine establishments any night of the week.)

He serves the lamb with rice or risotto, but I love stewy things like this with a cheesy spoonbread or polenta, or my mother’s really easy and very delicious “mock cheese soufflé.” For a starter, I’d do Shrimp Remoulade or a classic Crab Louis, but if you want something lighter, there are few things better than fresh jumbo lump crab tossed with a lemony vinaigrette and a handful of chopped chives and mint and tarragon, and you could throw some shrimp in there as well.

For dessert, I’d serve some really good cookies (molasses or shortbread) and one or both of these ice creams. They come from the late and much- lamented Justine’s restaurant in Memphis, where for big parties Justine would pile up individual scoops in big old silver punch bowls and place them on the sideboard. She also always had full-blown old roses from the restaurant’s garden on the tables. I can’t think of anything more beautiful for Mother’s Day.

Start with a good Sancerre, follow up with a Gigondas, and Mom will be really happy. Read on for the recipes.

Click here for Frank Stitt’s recipe for Lamb Shanks with Sweet Peas and Mint

NOTE: All the recipes but Stitt’s are from my book, Ham Biscuits, Hostess Gowns, and Other Southern Specialties, just out in paperback — also, I hasten to add, an excellent Mother’s Day gift.