Think Up | 06/03/2008 12:00 am
Ashley Judd's Rwanda Diaries Part One: After Doubt and Delay, Ashley Arrives in Africa

Today’s travel has gone off as planned and, as I write, I am watching the African sun begin to set, casting shades of oranges so associated with this continent.
Africa! How is this possible? How did I get here? Where does this life come from — from my 40th birthday in the Scottish Highlands with dear friends, roaring with laughter and running a sack race on the front lawn of a castle, to my first appointment in Rwanda this evening with a woman senator and Zainab Salbi, the founder of Women for Women International, whose amazing book, Between Two Worlds, I finished last night? I called someone back from the Rodham-Clinton campaign last night and when the president heard it was me on the line, he grabbed the phone for a wee chat. That is sort of nerve-racking, to have him spontaneously get on the phone like that. I have to laugh at my life, give thanks, laugh, give thanks.
The African sun is setting with its patented hues of orange and red. The sun looks like this from nowhere else on earth. I can see the thousand hills of Rwanda undulate before me, terraced and graced with lakes. I am grateful to be emotionally sober. My last time to this continent, the original home of us all, I was so overwhelmed with emotion as to be nearly distraught. Everything, but everything, made me cry! My first African tree! My first African bird! My first African friend! I was returning to my cradle and had the heightened emotionality of a seeker’s first pilgrimage. I am far from casual about this journey — far from it. I am simply … simpler. My gratitude, awe, respect and even my enthusiasm are more subtle.
There is tough work to be done. Tomorrow I begin the Genocide Memorial and a talk afterwards about the progress Rwanda has made since that insanity. I will meet our host country staff (PSI Rwanda) and begin to learn more about the burden of poor health that continues to unnecessarily cost Rwandans their children and their own lives and stifle their economy and progress. Rwanda is the most densely populated African country, and malaria, lack of safe water (only 2.5 percent of Rwandans have piped water), the great need for family planning, STIs, HIV and other preventable diseases and issues keep the entire population subsisting on less than a dollar a day. I will see our programs in action, celebrate what works and help carry the message of prevention and effective grassroots programs to those who can fund them and help change attitudes and policies for the better.
Gender-based violence will be a core theme of this trip. I have already abdicated my day to see the Silverback Gorillas in order to go to Goma, a city in the Democratic Republic of Congo accessible more safely from Rwanda (Dario is not amused but Papa Jack is here and has done his work. We’ll be okay; it’s said to be more stable now, with a very large UN presence, too). The refuge camps are filled with masses of women — victims of rape. The gorillas, as much as I love them, can wait.
I am glad to be here, glad to learn, glad to serve and am more than a little perplexed as to why me.























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