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The Etceterist | 09/03/2008 10:00 am

Fashion Week Up, Hemlines Down: Introducing wowOwow's The Etceterist

Editor’s Note:  Introducing The Etceterist, the byline for the new style-world infiltrator for wowOwow.com, who will post deliciously anonymous weekly musings vis-à-vis the glamorous goings-on in the worlds of fashion and culture. Who is The Etceterist? Some may guess, but we prefer to stay silent, except to pronounce that there is no more inside insider in the worlds of art, beauty, society and culture. 

Despite its popularity these days as a cultural signifier, it is still very fashionable among women more oriented to gravitas than grosgrain to say they do not give a hoot about fashion. In this wobbling world, there is so much else of such great importance to concern oneself with! Fashion, they say, reminds them of Barbie, the doll who, by the way, will be 50 in 2009. So this is what 50 looks like? Mattel is planning a year’s worth of festivities and promotions from clothing to Barbie spa and beauty products.

Well, yes, of course, all of the above reasons against fashion may be true but The Etceterist — lovely to meet you, too — begs to differ. You have to get dressed anyway, don’t you? So you might as well have a lark. Style is the etcetera of life, and thank goodness for it: the lighter side. What was it Karl Lagerfeld said recently? Oh, yes: “I never make serious conversation. It bores me to death.” Recounting his experience of being photographed by Annie Leibovitz, Karl quoted the great photographer telling him that she needed “three days with you to see what’s behind.” And Karl responded: “Annie, you’re wasting your time. Look at what you see. There is nothing else.”

With fashion week landing in a matter of days in New York, a brief summary of some recent news from this other planet, plus coming attractions and trends, might be useful. Hemlines? From Prada, Armani, Marc Jacobs, among others, to the knee if not right down to the floor; the operative word, down, concurring with Wharton economist George Taylor’s “hemline index” which says that when the economy goes south, so too do skirt lengths. Politics? The media is still walking on gilded splinters waiting to institute its inevitable fashion war between Cindy McCain and Michelle Obama. Watch for it in a matter of days while the candidates’ sartorial contrast somehow escapes unexamined. In Italy, Father Antonio Rungi is organizing a beauty contest … for nuns. Titled “The Sister Italia 2008,” instead of bathing suits the commodity here is “inner beauty.” Father Antonio says the pageant will prove that there is more in this world than “just the plasticized beauty you see on television. There is also such a thing as a chaste ideal, which comes from the heart and the soul, and has a beneficial effect on those who come into contact with it.” Monastery Barbie, anyone?

Closer to home, the American fashion saint Isabel Toledo kicks off fashion week on September 3 at the Rainbow Room with a luncheon in her honor given by the FIT (Fashion Institute of Technology) Couture Council. What to wear? According to the September issues of Vogue, W, Harper’s Bazaar and Elle, some of the compelling trends in the fall collections are: dresses, especially the little black or berry-red dress worn with bold accessories, country tweeds à la Carolina Herrera’s and Michel Kors’s collections, romantic blouses à la Lanvin and Oscar de la Renta, tuxedos, but not for luncheon, loose jerseys from Donna Karan and loads of knits from Ralph Lauren, among other ideas.

How to afford high fashion prices? Amortize? Isn’t that the trendy person’s synonym for denial? And there always are designers’ less-expensive lines: Emporio Armani. Rei Kawakubo’s Comme des Garçons collection for H & M. Vera Wang’s Lavender label. On the home-products front, fashion-editor-favorite John Derian, whose East Village store is the chicest of the chic, is launching his first collection for Target.

No one will ever accuse Karl Lagerfeld or Calvin Klein or Miuccia Prada etc. of being Robin Hoods, but the fashion world, the second largest industry in New York after finance — maybe given the woeful state of finance, it is now number one — means well. To wit, mid-month some 15 City Harvest trucks will be outfitted in the earthy apple and purple colors from DKNY’s fall campaign. Including a special fundraising necklace, the fashion brand is putting its muscle behind City Harvest’s nonprofit food rescue program in a big way this fall. Go to DKNY.com for more information.

9 Reader Comments (so far…) Sign In or Register to comment

BellaMia
It does seem too trivial for words, vain and superficial - shallow. I did spend a few minutes with my 22 year old (5’8”, size 2, bust size 34DD), daughter admiring the Vera Wang- off the rack collection for the structure of it’s pieces. Very well done. My favorite fashion moment is opening a big box shipped from California, piled high with Ann Taylor clothing, and sometime Dana Buchman, all discovered by my sister-in-law, the garage sale diva, for usually under $10 a piece. So delightful.
By BellaMia on 09/03/2008 9:33 am
DianaT
I love fashion. I was raised in the golden era of fashion, in the magazines and in the movies. Thank you, wow for creating this section to appeal to the arty side of life. Rule number 1..You do not have to spend a fortune to look good and put together. And, when you are put together, you act like it and give off those vibes that you are authenticly happy with yourself. Bella, is correct, some of the most fashionable women in my town are picking up pieces of discarded Prada or Wang at the various consignment shops. I have a great Talbott skirt that I bought last year for all of $15. My sister, who I admire so much, learned coutourier construction for her clothes. So if she wants a Chanel suit, she builds one. Coutoure is literally constructed to fit the body it’s being made for. The piece first made in muslin, is then fitted exactly to the contours of the owner’s body, and most of the piece is handstitched, which is why those pieces are so costly. Classic fashion is never out of style. If they still fit(dammit!), I would be able to wear several suits and dresses that are about 40+ yrs. old.
By DianaT on 09/03/2008 10:43 am
carolwilson1
Fashion is so wonderful. You can change your clothes and change your mood. There is nothing like bright colors, wonderful fabric and a great fit to make you feel like a million dollars. HOWEVER , those of us with extra pounds know how hard it is to find great clothes. It makes no sense that with so many people being overweight, that designs are aimed at the skeletal size zeros. Most clothes in large sizes are awful, cheap made and have ugly colors….get real and give us something lovelyto wear.
By carolwilson1 on 09/03/2008 12:38 pm
kermieb
Carol—I agree. And why is it only women are proud to say “I’m a Zero!” It means nothing, after all. Men don’t have a size zero. Now, why is that? Hmm.
By kermieb on 09/03/2008 3:42 pm
ChariBonagua
A friend once said that you wear clothes to keep warm or not to get arrested. He read it in some paperback novel. I say you can embellish your clothes to be fashionable whether to get warm or not to get arrested. lol. Personally, I like those classic Chanel dresses. I still wear those that I bought 5 years ago. It still fits, thank heavens.
By ChariBonagua on 09/03/2008 12:49 pm
RainbowPower
When a woman looks her best, you feel good about yourself. When I need a magnificent dress or outfit, I go to the upper thrift stores and even goodwill. I look as good as the others, at a fraction of the cost. I also have bought wonderful designer shoes and clothes on ebay for pennies on the dollar. And when I need just a little something else to make the outfit right, I make it myself…..extremely couture at its best!
By RainbowPower on 09/03/2008 5:08 pm
LynnMarie
I am going into my 50s overweight and dieting—mostly for health issues. I feel better when I have nice clothes on and for most of my life those were not designer clothes. Now I admit I am known to dabble in the name brands but only on sale-and it’s fun to find them on a good deal. Remember that Stevie wonder song when he is singin g about his sister…”HER CLOTHES ARE OLD BUT NEVER ARE THEY DIRTY” its true you can look good at any price……
By LynnMarie on 09/03/2008 6:41 pm
TeeZee
That’s not good for the markets, as Burton Malkiel explained in “A Random Walk Down Wall Street” all those years ago, noting that “there does seem to be a loose tendency for bull markets to be associated with bare knees, and depressed markets to be associated with bear markets for girl watchers.” After all, the great bull market of the 1920s is associated with the flappers and short skirts, while long skirts were back in vogue during the Depression-era 1930s. The markets were great again in the 1960s, when short skirts were all the rage again (along with very little clothing otherwise). Designer Bill Blass, according to Malkiel, said in 1987 that “short skirts now look ridiculous to me,” even though fashion designers were proferring said designs in the spring of that year. “Fasten your seat belts. It’s going to be a bumpy night” Bette Davis as Margo Channing in All About Eve.
By TeeZee on 09/03/2008 7:41 pm
Rho
I grew up with fashion. My dad was in business in the NY Garment Center. I’ve always loved clothes. I am a size 2, and many of the clothes I have for years still fit me. I always managed to buy things that do not go out of style, but every year I buy more. My favorite things are coats and shoes.
By Rho on 09/04/2008 3:38 pm