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Judith Martin | 03/26/2008 8:06 am

Here Comes the Bride; Where Is Her Dress?

Judith Martin

The ritual is adorable. Mother and daughter ditch the gentlemen and set out (on the first day of spring, in a blinding Chicago snowstorm) to find a wedding dress.

Only there aren’t any. Not if you think of a wedding dress as something formal, white and ravishing that is suitable to wear on a dignified ceremonial occasion.

My daughter and her nearest available bridesmaid had done the preliminary research of flipping through the five-pound magazines and the jammed racks of a massive wedding franchise. The choice, she reported, was between a peek-a-boo dress, tightly constructed to expose one body part, such as a naked leg or backside cleavage, and an enormous confection of bows, ruffles, tulle and lace that does not attempt to dress the bride so much as to gift wrap her.

So off we went to the higher end of the business. Just off the Magnificent Mile, we found a cluster of lushly carpeted boutiques where we were offered tea in china cups and water in stemmed glasses. Along the walls were open closets in which the neatly spaced lineup of vast off-white triangles, delicately rigged at the top from satin hangers, was pleasantly reminiscent of summertime sail boat races on the horizon of nearby Lake Michigan.

But in four such establishments, we found only two (other) basic choices, although with an infinite number of small variations.

By far the majority were dresses that must have been “inspired,” as designers are wont to say, by the wedding cake: huge at the bottom, where they were elaborately festooned with folds, ribbons or flowers, and slowly narrowing toward a small white circle at the top. This was the strapless bodice, from which the bare bride was to emerge at the half-breast level. When we asked to see something other than strapless, we were shown a small selection of what appeared to be old-fashioned wedding nightgowns: flimsy (but no less costly) straight shifts hanging from fragile bits of ribbon or lace.

Was anyone there familiar with a once-popular design element called the sleeve?

This inquiry brought on a rush of sympathy. What was familiar to them was the occasional draconian clergyman who insists that the bride not appear at his altar looking as if she were making a quick, utilitarian stop on her way to the real business of the evening— partying. To appease this type, the shops carried tiny boleros that could be peeled off the minute reactionary religious approval was no longer necessary.

That the bride herself might want anything other than the now-standard model was not considered. And yet a married niece told us of the dismay her friends experienced when their wedding photographs confronted them with the fact that their dresses looked like everyone else’s — and didn’t even show up in their most formal heads-and-shoulders portraits. One friend of hers had burst into tears when she realized, a bit late, that not all shoulders —hers, for instance— are flattered by total exposure.

Nevertheless, my daughter and I agreed that we had had a charming excursion. Until we got back and the Father of the Bride and the Fiancé of the Bride called out, “Well? Did you find it?”

Read more about: Bride, Fashion, Style, Wedding

27 Reader Comments (so far…) Sign In or Register to comment

Bella Mia
We found a modest and unique wedding dress online at Eternity Gowns. The entire fabric was small pleats flowing down from an empire waist http://www.eternitygowns.com/assets/bridal/2007spring/catalog.htm 4th down on the left #8506. Our daughter looked stunning with her golden strawberry ringlets cascading unto her shoulders. Here is the link to the 2008 collection: http://www.eternitygowns.com/assets/bridal/2008spring/catalog.htm
By Bella Mia on 03/26/2008 11:58 pm
Micky Mc
My first wedding dress was blue…and I SWEAR! there will NEVER be a 2nd one!
By Micky Mc on 03/27/2008 12:42 am
Mugsy Peabody
Well, interestingly, I just received an invitation to a Lesbian butch/femme wedding and (NO I DIDN’T MAKE THIS UP) the invitation included a dress code, with samples of what would be appropriate butch and appropriate femme wear. I place my fingers over my eyes and lean my head against my hand. Um-um, um-um, um. Sigh. Wouldn’t a simple “morning wear,” “formal wear,” or “black tie” suffice?
By Mugsy Peabody on 03/27/2008 1:34 am
Buh-Bye Hillary Hillary Buh-Bye
Mugsy, What I love is the ambiguous (when you don’t know the people/context) “Restaurant Dressy.” Would that be Denny’s or La Grenouille?
By Buh-Bye Hillary Hillary Buh-Bye on 03/27/2008 10:50 pm
Rita T
I, too, ended up buying the first dress I tried on, after trying on numerous others to please my mom and my sister. It was perfect for a 1976 wedding … even had daisy appliques on the skirt! After the wedding, the bridal consultant shipped the dress off to be cleaned and hermetically sealed in a sort of coffin-like box. It sat in my old closet at my parents house through the years until after my divorce. I got curious about the dress and I broke the seal! Turns out it wasn’t sealed quite so well. The green paper they wrapped around the dress was now fused to the dress!!! The only thing that could be salvaged was the veil which I promptly gave to the four-year-old daughter of the man I was dating then. The dress went to Goodwill … I wonder if they got the green out?
By Rita T on 03/27/2008 8:44 am
Barbara Long
As a first-time bride at 51, I wanted a wedding dress that was sophisticated and stylish. I went to two stores where I was shown gowns with enormous skirts—I can’t imagine what I would have looked liked in one of those dresses. At the third store, I said again, I am 51 years old and I don’t want to look like an elderly Tinkerbell at my wedding. I was also adamant that I did not want a strapless dress. The woman helping me finally persuaded me to try on a strapless dress. Bingo. A lovely champagne gold color, strapless with beading on the bodice, and a small train. It’s true that you cry when it’s the right dress. To confirm that it was, I asked my two best friends to leave the room. I said in a whisper to my dear, departed mother, “Well, mom, what do you think?” The lights didn’t blink and there was no rush of cold air, so I knew it was the dress. And it was.
By Barbara Long on 03/27/2008 5:55 pm
Buh-Bye Hillary Hillary Buh-Bye
Barbara, Sweet story…esp. “Well, mom, what do you think?” When in doubt I always ask, “What would Audrey do?” And can we all just agree right now this following was THEEE best wedding dress that EVAH existed…..AND some one was really genius to set this Funny Face clip to Etta James. Just when I start to go all nuclear-cynical….someone WOWS me all over again. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EUdtG3Er_-s
By Buh-Bye Hillary Hillary Buh-Bye on 03/27/2008 10:59 pm
Barbara Long
Suzanne, Yes, it is one of the loveliest wedding dresses ever, not to mention we get to look at Paris while Audrey is in it—and that Audrey is one of the most beautiful women, ever. That clip was a delight on a dreary day in Pennsylvania. Thank you!
By Barbara Long on 03/28/2008 10:32 am
Susan S
Mydaughter was married 19 years ago and Imade her dress. It had a high lace neck, long sleeves with a point over the back of the hand. The bottom was full but didn’t require a hoop and it was tucked up every so often to reveal an underskirt. I embroidered a sweet smiling cat face in one of the tucked up parts and only she and I knew it was there. A wedding dress never to be forgotten.
By Susan S on 03/27/2008 7:29 pm
Judy m.
Recently I found my mother-in-laws wedding dress. She would have been married 75 years ago. The dress was ivory silk and lace. It consisted of a long body-hugging silk slip with a long lace overcoat that was removable. It was handmade right down to the handsewn seams. Reading this I realized that this dress could easily be worn to a modern wedding. Of course the one wearing it would have to be a size 0 and almost 6ft.tall. Talk about everything old is new again!
By Judy m. on 04/01/2008 1:05 pm
Pamela Munro
I wore my Grandmother’s WWI era wedding dress at my first wedding. And At my second (and true one) a long light green linen one, because it was so hot in the NJ backyard we staged the wedding in that anything silk would have disintegrated. My family tradition is NOT to spend $ frivolously on a wedding gown which can only be worn ONCE! I did buy a lace parasol for the garden wedding, tho - cost more than the dress - ditto my jewelry!!
By Pamela Munro on 04/01/2008 3:19 pm
Cricket Van Lent
I’m getting married quite soon, and the task of finding a reasonable wedding dress has proved harder than I thought. I thought I’d hit gold with the search term “modest wedding dress,” but thought these dresses cover the skin, modest they aren’t. If you want sleeves, the reasoning seems to go, then you must also want acres of beading, bustling, and enough silk to house Barnum and Bailey. My mother, while she was still alive, told me that I could forget about her footing the bill if I chose to wear a bare shouldered dress. I wish I could finally tell her I’m old enough to know she was right.
By Cricket Van Lent on 05/15/2008 6:18 pm