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The Etceterist | 02/11/2009 8:30 am

Fashion Week Preview: Lagerfeld, de la Renta, Herrera Keeping the Flame of Fantasy Alive

By Billy Norwich
Wikipedia

It may seem shocking to some, considering this woeful economy, but Fashion Week begins in New York Thursday and builds momentum until its conclusion the following Friday. Think of it as the big business it is, not the frivolousness you disapprove of.

Already the experts are predicting the coming trends, but you can be the first on your block to know …

Inspiration: In seasons past when bling was the thing, it was common for designers, in those grand exhales for which we love them, to say their collections were inspired in some pretty farfetched ways. For instance, a particularly famous Christian Dior collection, extraordinarily beautiful we might add, was designed by John Galliano. Galliano said his inspiration was “Pocahontas on the Orient Express.” Fabulous!

However …

Mindful of the economy, and with everyone worried about the security of their jobs or trying to find new employment, this season fantasy is "out" — and what’s "in" for "inspiration" are chic clothes consumers might invest in to wear to work and job interviews. Expect lots of "Mad Men" references and influences. Maybe some Doris Day, too, and, of course, lots and lots of First Lady Michelle Obama "shout-outs."

Color: Black is the new black — always safe, always perfectly appropriate in challenging times for work, for dinner, for buddy-can-you-spare-a-theater-ticket …

Tres Chic: Yes, there will be some fantasy, if not in abundance in New York or Milan, than certainly in Paris, when the Fashion Circus arrives in the City of Light next month at the end of three-plus weeks of fashion shows in New York, then London, Milan and Paris.

Designers such as Oscar de la Renta, Carolina Herrera, Vera Wang, in New York, and John Galliano, Karl Lagerfeld and Alexander McQueen in Europe feel it is their obligation to keep the flame of fashion fantasy alive.

“There is a credit crunch, not a creative crunch,” John Galliano said recently.

Asked if the global financial woes were affecting fashion this season, Karl Lagerfeld answered, “only the conversation.”

Power Dressing: Or, "dress for success" — see aforementioned “Mad Men” references — got a bad rap during the hipper-than-thou bling years, but now that everyone is scrambling for their work lives, sartorial seriousness — not "Cocktail Barbie" — makes sense. Dress-down Fridays will become extinct and women — and men — will be dressing sharp, dressing confidently, to convey a seriousness we haven’t seen in years.

Just hoping the 1980s wide shoulder pads do not make a return, but they might. At the recent Armani Prive collection shown in Paris, there were plenty that would have made Alexis Carrington’s day.

"I Gave My Seat to a Colleague Who Really Wanted It": This is a euphemism for “I was cut from Marc Jacobs’s show.” To save money, as well as lower the glitz and bling factor, the designer’s guest list for his February 16 show has been cut from 2,000 guests to 700, of which 500 will be seated and 200 will stand. What a winter of fashionable discontent this will bring.

"That Dress Is Divine for Wednesdays in Washington": Refers to liking something on the runway and thinking how perfect it would be to wear if and when one is asked to any of the Wednesday evening cocktail parties the Obamas will be giving regularly at the White House, as reported by politico.com. Not since Camelot has social life in the White House promised such a potent, political elixir. What to wear?

7 Reader Comments (so far…) Sign In or Register to comment

Diana T
Michelle is on the new Vogue cover, and I just looked at these neat pictures on Chicago Tribune… http://www.chicagotribune.com/news/politics/obama/chi-michelle-obama-dre…
By Diana T on 02/11/2009 9:45 am
Wow Trop de classe
DT, Thanks for the link…some great photos, some not so much. Michelle’s pose in the first photo is like that famous, gorgeous Jackie portrait on the sofa in a window. http://z.about.com/d/womenshistory/1/0/z/I/jackie_kennedy.jpg Fun to see them all Michelle lay off prints…except in the case of the black and white dress…they don’t do anything for her. Busy looking. Always looks best in solids. That camel/black outfit was a real knockout.
By Wow Trop de classe on 02/11/2009 5:40 pm
Diana T
I still love the camel/black that she wore before the Inauguration. It was my kind of outfit. And, I thought the red/black dress that she wore the night he was elected was interesting on the runway. It was probably my least favorite of the bunch I’ve seen her in. But, she clearly said that she was getting chilled and so, she put on her black cardigan. That’s one thing I like about Michelle Obama. She’s not so self conscious that she won’t put her own mark on her fashion sense. I just saw NBC news and there she is, sitting on a floor with gray slacks with a bunch of pre-schoolers wearing a pair of ballet shoes and looking as comfortable as can be.
By Diana T on 02/11/2009 5:59 pm
Ms. Dee
Oh, Mr. Norwich! Is that you? disguised in a silver crop!. Very nice, young man! I don’t know about anybody else, but I’m so tired of the “military cut”.
By Ms. Dee on 02/11/2009 1:18 pm
Danielle DuBois
For the Fashion Week opening party this weekend, I’m going to rock out some H&M classic mod look (probably some sort of paean to both Michelle O and Mad Men), wear my hair flipped out, and perhaps wear some vintage Stuart Weitzman heels I picked up on eBay for $8. If it’s snowing though, I might opt for some vintage go-go boots I picked up at the Ragstock in Chicago (again, a nod to both Mrs. O and “Mad Men.”) Classic is the latest trend. Pieces with longevity, like cardigans, are taking fashion reign over junk like lurex tights. In this economy, it’s just plain gauche to be seen flaunting logoed designer duds (carriers of faux LV bags, take note). Sure, wear some stuff by the designer of honor when attending the appropriate show, but you’d have to make a concerted effort to be the worst- or best-dressed woman in attendance. Here’s a nice little piece I found re: some effects of the recession on Fashion Week: http://is.gd/igXd
By Danielle DuBois on 02/11/2009 2:49 pm
Wow Trop de classe
Fun piece! So right, Mr. Norwich, like the Oscars, a little decorum is in order given the rag-muffin economy…but we need some frivolity, beauty and inspiration, too. Always fun to read your witty pieces.
By Wow Trop de classe on 02/11/2009 5:32 pm
andy len
EVEN MICHELLE OBAMA IS CLOTHES SWAPPING! SO, FORGET FASHION WEEKNATIONAL CLOTHES SWAPPING WEEK STARTS 20TH FEB! www.Bigwardrobe.com, the Internet’s biggest clothes swapping website has just announced the UK’s first ever National Clothes Swapping Week, which will coincide with London Fashion Week starting on 20th February 2009. Fashion fans everywhere will be urged to dig out their unwanted items and list them on Bigwardrobe.com for the busiest and most successful week of clothes swapping in history! The founders of Bigwardrobe.com hope to show people that you don’t have to travel to a fashion capital like London, Paris or Milan - or even spend a single cent - to be 100% on-trend. http://www.bigwardrobe.com
By andy len on 02/12/2009 2:08 am