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Mary Wells | 03/13/2008 5:51 pm

Moscow on the Mediterranean

Roman Abramovich's Eclipse
Mary Wells

The following post was originally written on Jan. 23, 2008.

Attention! The Côte d’Azur is now the Côte-d’Russe, as Russians — some carrying cash in Vuitton bags – buy up the best there is in London and the Med. Much of Cap-Ferrat, the most beautiful cap in the South of France, is now owned by Russians. Cap-Ferrat used to be a privileged escape for the English and Americans. Those homeowners are thinning out as many sell their homes. It is hard to say no to a Russian so rich he can offer you 150 million euros or more in a Vuitton bag for your house.

It used to be the custom to take a good healthy run around the top of Cap-Ferrat in the morning – but no more. I don’t know where they found them but the Russians who bought houses there have Spiderman dogs that fly through the air — growling through their perfect white teeth. You don’t need police in Saint Jean-Cap-Ferrat. No thief is going to mess with Spiderman dogs.

Russia has a currency reserve of four hundred thirteen billion rubles, the largest per capita foreign currency reserve of any major economy including China’s. It’s not just coming from oil. Foreign investment is flowing into Russia, and Putin is suggesting that the world’s central banks should begin holding reserves in rubles as well as dollars and euros. He’s building a white Greek Revival building you can see from the Winter Palace in St. Petersburg that will open to market traders. Soon transactions will be dominated by rubles. The ruble is strong and Putin is not the only one with a smug smile these days. There is a lot of pleased joking about the weak dollar in Moscow.

Russians feel rich and it feels good. They want the best of the best. At dinner recently, a very attractive Russian told me I should not be surprised that his country wants its turn at the good life. “My family has never known what tomorrow may bring. There have been terrible uncertainties. There are still uncertainties. Who knows what you will have next year — or when what you have will be taken away from you? We know too well that we can lose everything. Look at Mikhail Khodorkovsky, once Russia’s richest man, now he’s in jail, and every day, he is worth less in every way.” He said quietly, “No, when we have money we spend it, we enjoy it, we just hope we can keep our houses in Forte dei Marmi.”

Read more about: Business, International, Moscow, Russia

23 Reader Comments (so far…) Sign In or Register to comment

claire raleigh
wow this is great! i can’t even spell their names!
By claire raleigh on 01/29/2008 2:22 pm
kat
It was only a matter of time, i believe their is a very high number of russian billionaires. I wouldnt be suprised if they are investing and buying in Dubai.
By kat on 03/13/2008 9:34 am
hawgwld_n_ hartlss
I hate to say it, but our country’s leaders have place us in the position to become a second rate economy. It’s no wonder that Russia is doing all it can to economically displace us from our first place position. And Russia could easily wipe out many economic markets if they chose to flood the world with their stock piles of diamonds and such.
By hawgwld_n_ hartlss on 03/13/2008 11:11 am
brad berger
Bring back the Cold War - the Russians were nice people compared to terrorists. Everyone played by the same rules.
By brad berger on 03/13/2008 3:35 pm
Elizabeth Dunkel
Fascinating! And something I would have never thought about or known about if it hadn’t been for you. Thanks for sharing. Would be a great article for Vanity Fair!
By Elizabeth Dunkel on 03/13/2008 7:24 pm
Maryann Lowry
I agree with Elizabeth. I had no idea that the Russians were suddenly in a great position economically. These people suffered from the tight controls of socialism. I grew up being afraid of the Russians, as our children fear terrorists. How do they evolve into a financially powerful nation? www.blog.createanewseason.com
By Maryann Lowry on 03/13/2008 8:49 pm
patricia hannigan
Yes, it seems like it was so recently that you never saw Russians outside of …the USSR.
By patricia hannigan on 03/13/2008 9:25 pm
Lana S
It is sad that Americans do not realize how the country with a lot of cash but no understanding of civil liberties, and desire only for rights, but no responsibilities, can influence life style far and wide. Gone are the days when Russians were not able to cross their border. Now they are in everybody’s face and it is not a pretty picture. The scariest part for me is that Russian society seems to have lost it sense of right and wrong. Basically, anything goes. No matter what you might say about Bill Clinton, or Spitzer or Sarkozi, it is impossible for them to purchase a fur-coat made of the skins of an animal that is on Endangered List, but that is exactly what President Putin did not so long ago and nobody paid any attention. Not to mention how he hand-picked his successor and called him democratically elected President. People without moral compass are really bad neighbors and what is scary, they do destroy the neighborhood. Now their neighborhood grew to include Europe and US, although not quite to the same extent, and people realize that it changes their community and not for the best. By the way, many rich Russians buy real estate in NY and Florida, especially Miami. I hope the next US President starts paying attention to what is Russia doing to the rest of the world and what it can do in the future.
By Lana S on 03/13/2008 9:49 pm
Cancer Dance
It is a shame that the currency reserve is not used to better the infrastructure of Russia. There is so much poverty. Its a shame we don’t do the same with our defense dollars. Two world powers…so much shame. tsk, tsk
By Cancer Dance on 03/13/2008 10:29 pm
teeny keels
I am interested to see what evidence there is that Russia is “threatening to shove aside the United States as the central leader in global economic affairs”. Putin and Medvedev may talk big but there is little hope of Russia reaching first world-prosperity with its current corrupt third-world institutions. The Russian economy is now more dependent than ever on oil and the slumping world economy will not be good for Russia. Natural resources account for 80% of exports and 32% of GDP. The oil boom is covering up much deeper problems within the Russian economy. As for foreign investment, most just use it as a tax haven. America has much bigger problems than the frivolous spending of Russian oligarchs, lest we forget that America has wrecked havoc on its own little corner of the world.
By teeny keels on 03/14/2008 12:36 am
CJ Denham
Wow, what an eye opening article! Here in Port Angeles where one of our largest manufacturers is a yacht builder, I guess our city fathers have not scouted out this business source…yet.
By CJ Denham on 03/14/2008 8:16 am
paula green
What a load of crap. There was a time when you were the nouveau riche parvenue, crashing the gates of advertising, and the establishment looked down at Bunny Wells with the same disdain and hauteur that you apply to the Russians.
By paula green on 03/14/2008 8:30 am
susan harris
Oh, my god, ‘boat life has changed on the Med’. It used to be such a family thing, simple I bet, when people swam and dined under the stars without having to hear those damn Russian accents. Poor Mary. We all can identify. I can only imagine how painful it is to sit on your yacht without a submarine.
By susan harris on 03/15/2008 1:04 pm
anne newman
I have seen and experienced first hand Russian elite both in Como and on a cruize in So America. They keep to themselves even though they speak English. They are brash, assuming and impolite usually. They make no appology for butting past you or taking enormous amounts of food from the buffet and leaving half. I’m sure some are very nice but they haven’t been trained in etiiquette, from table manners to interaction. Perhaps and hopefully that will change with the next generation. It may start with sending the children to schools in the US, England and Switzerland. Our lives are changing, no doubt about it. How sad…..not that we are invaded but the invaders don’t care about assimilation.
By anne newman on 03/15/2008 1:10 pm
A B
The Russians did not bury us but they sure changed boat life in the Mediterranean. Those Russians. We Americans. Us and Them. Them and Us. Oh the nostalgia of it. All we have left is Osama and whether or not cave life has changed.
By A B on 03/15/2008 4:39 pm