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Mary Wells | 03/13/2008 5:51 pm

Moscow on the Mediterranean

Roman Abramovich's Eclipse
Mary Wells

The following post was originally written on Jan. 23, 2008.

Attention! The Côte d’Azur is now the Côte-d’Russe, as Russians — some carrying cash in Vuitton bags – buy up the best there is in London and the Med. Much of Cap-Ferrat, the most beautiful cap in the South of France, is now owned by Russians. Cap-Ferrat used to be a privileged escape for the English and Americans. Those homeowners are thinning out as many sell their homes. It is hard to say no to a Russian so rich he can offer you 150 million euros or more in a Vuitton bag for your house.

It used to be the custom to take a good healthy run around the top of Cap-Ferrat in the morning – but no more. I don’t know where they found them but the Russians who bought houses there have Spiderman dogs that fly through the air — growling through their perfect white teeth. You don’t need police in Saint Jean-Cap-Ferrat. No thief is going to mess with Spiderman dogs.

Russia has a currency reserve of four hundred thirteen billion rubles, the largest per capita foreign currency reserve of any major economy including China’s. It’s not just coming from oil. Foreign investment is flowing into Russia, and Putin is suggesting that the world’s central banks should begin holding reserves in rubles as well as dollars and euros. He’s building a white Greek Revival building you can see from the Winter Palace in St. Petersburg that will open to market traders. Soon transactions will be dominated by rubles. The ruble is strong and Putin is not the only one with a smug smile these days. There is a lot of pleased joking about the weak dollar in Moscow.

Russians feel rich and it feels good. They want the best of the best. At dinner recently, a very attractive Russian told me I should not be surprised that his country wants its turn at the good life. “My family has never known what tomorrow may bring. There have been terrible uncertainties. There are still uncertainties. Who knows what you will have next year — or when what you have will be taken away from you? We know too well that we can lose everything. Look at Mikhail Khodorkovsky, once Russia’s richest man, now he’s in jail, and every day, he is worth less in every way.” He said quietly, “No, when we have money we spend it, we enjoy it, we just hope we can keep our houses in Forte dei Marmi.”

Read more about: Business, International, Moscow, Russia

23 Reader Comments (so far…) Sign In or Register to comment

Kathy Morris
The fact that there is a nouveau riche in Russia is news to me, also. But, if I understand it, on the whole, the Russian economy for most of the Russian people is still deplorable. What kind of life style does the “average” Russian have? Although Russia doesn’t seem to be as “isolated” from the rest of the world, as say N. Korea, are we Americans just clueless? I mean, I realize that in general Americans do not appear to have a great deal of interest in “foreign affairs,” it doesn’t help that our news media seem to cover Paris Hilton, Anna Nicole, etc., w/ nary a mention of Dar Fur, etc. (I know, I know, we get what we ask for, supposedly). I can believe that these newly wealthy Russians have ill manners, as that has been their society (socialism, w/ no economic reward for courtesy) for a century, or more. They also may just feel that they deserve it, because of generations of suffering. Since I am neither newly rich, or from old money, I do not feel threatened w/ loss of property in France, , but, that may be where it starts, then, there goes New York, etc. Thank you for this interesting piece.
By Kathy Morris on 03/15/2008 5:02 pm
Patrick Brooks
Where has Kathy Morris been? The Russian nouveau riche is news to her.
By Patrick Brooks on 03/16/2008 4:06 am
june m.
interesting piece, scooping the one in the nytimes today on russian yacht owers…Mary writes like a journalist. Was she one before she was a Mad-Ave woman?
By june m. on 03/16/2008 2:59 pm
Pamela Wells
Russians? Hmmm… Well, here in L.A., we should be talking about the Iranian Jews! They own EVERYTHING, and are tearing down every classic, residential apt. bldg. they can get their hands on! And talk about being brash and pushy? Hah! I’d like to see a Russian vs. an Iranian Jew, and my money’s on the latter!
By Pamela Wells on 03/16/2008 3:50 pm
Charles Dance
todays story on the yachts was a good one.Did anyone read DELUXE by Dana Thomas,CHINA,RUSSIA and INDIA…upcoming big boys.Maybe already here!
By Charles Dance on 03/16/2008 4:48 pm
Catherine Berlin
But think of the campaigns - “If I were Russian, I’d be rushin’ to invest” or “Putin’ your money where it belongs.” Mon dieu, every five years it’s a different group of foreign investors coming to turn us into, well, foreigners, I guess, and (1) I’m still not Japanese (remember?) - although that would be fine, and (2) our own worst enemy continues to be our ignorant, insular selves. My own “Who do they think they are?” anecdote is about the Russian man driving on the highway who got out to help another driver stranded in the median during a blizzard. This good soul was killed by an oncoming car. I never met him, but his family was nice.
By Catherine Berlin on 03/16/2008 6:34 pm
helene lorraine
American economy is so bad and not because of Russians. Lake Como or Costa Esmeralda were never a family places, and there are no buffets there. If you take a look outside and all you see are enemies - you will be the bad neighbor. Putin’s ratings are 78% and Bush’s 18%. Blame the Russians. There is no Europeen would send his child to an American school. Life of Russian citizens improved 3fold, if you didn’t know. I worry about the equality between men and women and the equality between different nationalitries. According to you Russians have no right to prosper. And all racial slur, it’s like calling a woman a b word. Now regarding nouveaux riches, why not dicussing Warren Buffet - does he care how many people live under poverty level in his home town, or the Mexican mogul, please. Women in this country (US) voted for Bush, yes many did, today they’re voting against Hillary - these are very worring factors, who’s there to blame?
By helene lorraine on 03/16/2008 11:44 pm
georgia g
as an adult political science student, trying to discuss our changing geopolitical circumstances with any of the three generations I deal with on a daily basis is frustrating if not outright frightening. Ignorance or obliviousness, these facts come from the headlines of the newspapers we no longer read, and for the most part care nothing about, because no one understands geography or economics, beyond how much their house is worth and the ability to shop- less money means cheaper stuff, but quality is no longer of importance here- there will always be a market place for the good stuff wherever the neauvou riche currently reside. A fellow student, a recent Russian Law School grad, is here learning more about the American Legal system- of importance in Russian business circles that have expanded interests here where everything is thought to be for sale. She says everyone knows what goes on, and the older people are a bit suspicious, but since they’ve never had it so good, they will support whatever it takes to keep it going. I guess since they know what is going on they have that advantage over us. Even as our middle class shrinks more each day and our homegrown corporate leaders enter into still illegal partnerships that no longer respect national security or sovereignty, celebrating profit will continue to come at the expense of our own nation’s future- we’ve sold out our children for a new pair of cheap shoes. Reagan once asked, “are YOU better off.” He never asked if our country was. Neither do we.
By georgia g on 03/17/2008 12:43 pm