Peggy Noonan | 03/07/2008 6:32 pm
What's a Woman to Wear? wOw Asks Tina Isaac

Here I digress to say that if I were an American designer I would make the clothing I design less subject to artistic abstractions and assumptions and more real. Less attenuated from the actual wants of non-wealthy women who like to look good. A lot of middle-aged American women would like to look like women again. They’d like to dress the part. Remember the Park Avenue mother in “Bonfire of the Vanities,” who dressed like her adolescent daughter? Women are so over that.
What some great young designer should do is: Lead. Lead the way. Love middle-aged women and want to make them look beautiful. Adore them and lead them into a new kind of fashion, one that announces, with pleasure, who they are.
Back to Tina Isaac. We asked her if the Paris shows offered hope to my friend. She seemed to say: Yes, a bit. She said, “The lady is back.” My friend will like hearing about the Chanel jackets, though I’m not sure she’d go that high in price. But long flowing pants with heels – she’ll think that sounds nice. So do I.
*********************
Report From Paris by Tina Isaac:
Note: Tina Isaac, who used to edit the Paris Vogue website, went to the fall shows for wOw.
There were plenty of WOW moments on the Paris runways last week — not least of them the partially shaved raccoon coat with WOW spelled out in black rabbit inserts at Viktor & Rolf. Coincidence? Synchronicity? Perhaps. But the surreal/comic subtext behind it, the designers said, was an anti-“fashion-slavery” statement about the speed of the fashion cycle. As in, “WOW, we can’t believe we’re already doing another collection.” (But since they are Dutch, they pronounce it “whoa,” which conveniently makes sense, too.) Ultimately, they added, “We say ‘yes’ to fashion.”
And there are lots of good reasons to say yes to fashion this fall, regardless of budget (or your stance on fur). Whoever said “elegance is refusal” — depending on whom you’re talking to it was either Coco Chanel or Vogue editor Diana Vreeland — could be describing the season to come. Anyone who lives in black will be exponentially spoiled for choice.
The best looks ranged from merely expensive to stratospheric, and as ever they will spawn options at every price point. Refusal isn’t necessarily about belt-tightening, never mind the looming recession and the killer euro. It’s about stepping off the fashion merry-go-round and choosing statement pieces — a structured jacket, a chunky necklace, a plush knit — in covetable fabrics with compelling details and
























40 Reader Comments (so far…) Sign In or Register to comment