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Peggy Noonan | 03/07/2008 6:32 pm

What's a Woman to Wear? wOw Asks Tina Isaac

What used to be called ladies fashion is on my mind. The reason: A friend and I had a conversation a few months ago and she mentioned that she really would like to go out and buy new clothes but there is nothing for her in the stores. This surprised me. There’s a lot in the stores. But she explained her predicament, and it made complete sense to me. She is in her fifties and looks it, and happily. She doesn’t want to be young, she wants to be her age. She has four kids and she pretty much likes her life and her work; she likes the stage she’s at. This, as she explained it, is what she wants: Grownup clothes that are chic and well made and womanly and made of good fabrics and natural things. She likes wool and silk and cotton. But she wants to look like a grownup woman in the way that grownup women looked when she was a kid. A skirt at mid-calf length, a handsomely fit jacket. Heels. Maybe even a hat. She either said, or I imagined, Katharine Hepburn in the movie “Desk Set.” Hepburn was in early middle age and looked sleek, womanly, mature, but not in a boring way. Chic in a deeper sense, not just an “in style at the moment” way.

My friend made it clear that she feels most high-end woman’s fashion is aimed at making people seem younger, hipper. Sleeveless, short, spare in the modern way. This is not what she wants. I asked her where she does buy clothes. She sort of shrugged and said she tends to default to inexpensive things that are adequate. She said she’ll go to the catalogues and buy something from J. Crew.

Here’s the message for designers: She wants to be spending more money on stuff she loves and not less money on things she doesn’t.

I thought everything she said reasonable, understandable, and an insightful. So, we asked Tina Isaac, whom Joan Juliet Buck knows from Paris Vogue, if there was any hope to be had in the fashion shows they just held in Paris.

The Paris shows as you know are not aimed at the traditional. Young designers are trying to break through with startling and unusual work. (I would say they are unusual in the usual way.) I think they view fashion as a highly sexualized entity, in part because they’re young and live in a highly sexualized business and cultural environment. Also from what I’ve observed reading fashion magazines, a lot of them are intellectuals or think of themselves as intellectuals, in a way that I find abstract and not grounded in a reality I would recognize as reality.

However, what starts in Paris will likely, as Meryl Streep says in her famous speech in “The Devil Wears Prada,” wind up, one way or

40 Reader Comments (so far…) Sign In or Register to comment

Lee Harrison
You New York ladies ought to look up Laura Bennet…the runner up on last year’s Project Runway on Bravo. Her designs are classic, sophisticated and grown up.
By Lee Harrison on 03/09/2008 4:30 pm
Grace St. Clair
okay - I’m 61 1/2 - got great legs, big boobs and hips, toned arms - ain’t nothing out there for me! I can wear anything thing I want to work - no need for business blah - I’m more than a little crazy - I like silky floaty stuff that shows off my assets - my legs - my slim neck and arms - and that’s a tad eccentric BUT age appropriate - And you think YOU have problems LOL
By Grace St. Clair on 03/09/2008 5:11 pm
Tawanda .
I actually gasped when I saw that model wearing a poor dead raccoon with that cute little WOW dead rabbit. Nobody has remarked it. What happened to conscious-raising: is it as dead as the 6os and 70s? It is disheartening that designers support the cruel fur industry. Animals are sentient beings. Perhaps you have a dog or cat that you love. Chances are you’re wearing one of them. A big business in China. It really upsets me. Animals look much better in their fur than you do. They need their coats. You don’t.
By Tawanda . on 03/09/2008 8:20 pm
Michele LuValle
I’m 70 and though I’m almost always dressed in long-sleeve tees or a white shirt and jeans, I recommend J. Peterman. The hard-cover catalog disappeared several years ago, but you can browse the current offerings on the web. He doesn’t (or can’t) offer a large selection, but what he does offer is fun, classy, not too expensive.
By Michele LuValle on 03/09/2008 8:24 pm
Jenni Smith
I am 52 and not in great shape, but I have money and want to spend it on well made, classy clothes that look good on me, but can I find them? No! I want sleeves, I want longer shirts and jackets, I want beautiful fabrics! I can’t believe no one is willing to design clothes for us when we have money to spend.
By Jenni Smith on 03/09/2008 9:36 pm
Catherine Berlin
Tailored suiting that covers and still looks fresh and inviting? MillyNy.com (Spring 2008 Collection). A man to study to learn how a luscious material alone can make you feel fabulous and look sexy, no matter how much skin he covers up: NaeemKhan.com (Spring 2008 - blue metallic jacket with white capris). Not all the looks on these sites are going to work for us, but I shoot the NYC Fashion Week shows and I’ve learned to stay sane by thinking of a collection as one might entertain a laid back approach to golf: it’s enough to feel the magic smack of the ball just a few times a round. With designers, I watch the runway and spy for those outfits that will look ageless. When they appear, I feel such immense satisfaction. But a few is not enough. To increase our options, a sheer chiffon blouse, like the Parameter sand crinkle (bluefly.com) can turn a naked dress or top into a wardrobe staple. I also put James Pearse long sleeve cotton Ts to the same use. Although his items are usually in the “Kids” section and his sizing is that dreadful 1, 2, or 3 - however that translates - his cotton is sheer and improves with wear so it looks perfectly intentional. To Sue Alt, check out the tops at WhiteHouseBlackMarket.com for ideas. The material may not be as breathable as you need, but the site offers style, structure, and a covered arm. I’ll keep thinking. EileenFisher.com offers better fabrics, but not in your look. And Grace - with your great body parts and the option for silky floaty, visit LorisDiran.com. Would any of the 2008 Part 1 styles work for you if they were made a little longer? Or an addition to that white strapless dress? There’s certainly nothing youngster in his seriously gorgeous fabrics. He is one who should be encouraged to fill the clothing gap.
By Catherine Berlin on 03/10/2008 12:16 am
Kathy Hernandez
This is why my CAbi parties always do so well. Women over 40 want something that’s attractive and sophisticated without looking trashy. It’s sometimes hard to find that in retail stores.
By Kathy Hernandez on 03/10/2008 12:53 am
Riesa Levine
I’m 61, very clothes-conscious (somewhat near shopaholic), and find lots of stuff (in many sizes) at Talbots - not stuffy anymore, and at Chico’s - hardly stuffy. They’re not “designer” (and neither is my budget) but they are as classy as anything I’ve seen elsewhere.
By Riesa Levine on 03/10/2008 6:23 am
Charlotte OHare
I have several clothing catalogs. The regular models are size 1 and the “plus” size models look size 10. What makes clothing designers thing that what looks good on those tiny, flat bodies will look good on a full-figured 16 size? When will they realize that I do NOT want my stomach and hips oozing out of the low-strung jeans? I dare one of those Paris fashion shows to have fashions made for size 16+. Emaciated models do NOT make me want to buy the clothes. It disgusts me.
By Charlotte OHare on 03/10/2008 6:57 am
cmk55 kolen
I am 53 and have a reasonably good body , I work out a lot, and probably CAN wear a lot that I WOULD NOT wear. For everyday it’s easy with jeans, and I can wear almost any. Tops always get a little dicey b/c who wants their belly showing if you’re not 15? It’s always tough when it comes to putting on something just a notch above, like for a luncheon? or a nice dinner? or theatre? My eye still goes to the “young” stuff but then I realize it would be much better on either of my daughters. Pants and a shirt , gets a bit boring. I’m looking at the years ahead and can’t even imagine what I’m going to wear. How about Bathing Suits?????????? now that’s really bad. Oh well, I’ll have to keep perusing for the right outfit. People always say, well you’re so thin you can wear it, but you really can’t. You need the appropriate clothes that still look hip. I’ll keep trying, and hopefully someone out there will come up with something.
By cmk55 kolen on 03/10/2008 8:25 am
Nancy Hamilton
It is rough out there, no matter your age or your body size. I am 42 and in very good shape (not a size 2 thank God, but I look better than when I was in my 20s, thank you very much) and I want to look hip, but age appropriately so. I am a university professor and have no desire to look or dress like my students but would like JUST ONE store/designer to decide what a cool 40 year old looks like. I appreciate many of the suggestions above and would also like to recommend Diane Von Furstenberg’s wrap dresses (affordable on Ebay). They are flattering and funky, but not something you see on the average 20 year old.
By Nancy Hamilton on 03/10/2008 10:37 am
Ann Ray
I like to pick up accent pieces at BCBG or local boutiques and pair them with a basic, but it takes persistent hunting and I don’t try to be current with trends. What keeps astounding me is how hard it is to find what I consider perennial basics, like silk knits (buy that any day over a cotton tee), any top that’s in the mid-ground between my collarbone and exposing my bra, or a beautifully draped skirt with a nice slit. Also, there’s always the accessories. Zappos.com is a serious addiction, and there’s nothing like a fluevog.com to feel feminine. For handbags, seatbeltbags.com, Beijo, or local designers—takes me all of 30 seconds to change bags instead of staying with plain old black. And the jewelry collection of course. Apart from boutiques, the summer art fairs are great for finding jewelry artists.
By Ann Ray on 03/10/2008 11:34 am
Diana Richards
wOw, great name for this site. My thoughts exactly when reading comments on this topic. I jotted down the web sites for designers one of your readers recommended (Catherine Berlin, thank you!) Both of my parents worked in retail so exposure to fashion came at an early age. Now a 51yr old women, size 10, finding clothes is not impossible it just takes time to find “your uniform”. Friends describe my style as classic and elegant, which as a professional senior director in a digital media & entertainment company also translates to “business casual”. What that means for me is nice slacks (Fabrizio Gianni, is a wonderful brand) blouses/sweaters (Faconable is another great classic fit), jackets, vests (Barbour makes great “country”clothing). Good shoes, whether heels or flats are a must. Silk scarves also do so much to dress up the look. I bought my first Hermes scarf this year and feel elegant every time I wear it. John Hardy jewelry is also a favorite. My husband who appreciates beautiful feminine shoes bought me my first pair of Gucci stilletos (ok, so I can only wear them for a few hours, but they are hot :-)) My shopping matra is it (1) has to fit great and be comfortable (2) spend a little more for quality without a designer budget (3) ok, the sleeve thing is really depressing, a cruel joke to say the least and the first thing i ugh over in a photo of myself. Not impossible to find a great look just keep shopping!
By Diana Richards on 03/10/2008 11:51 am
Judith Burnside
The fur coat really bothered me. How have we come back to an attitude that will tolerate this obscenity?
By Judith Burnside on 03/10/2008 11:58 am
Nancy Hamilton
All of these are great shpping tips, but we are all talking about cobbling together a look. Wouldn’t it be nice if there were stores that CATERED to us?
By Nancy Hamilton on 03/10/2008 12:00 pm