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Peggy Noonan | 03/07/2008 6:32 pm

What's a Woman to Wear? wOw Asks Tina Isaac

What used to be called ladies fashion is on my mind. The reason: A friend and I had a conversation a few months ago and she mentioned that she really would like to go out and buy new clothes but there is nothing for her in the stores. This surprised me. There’s a lot in the stores. But she explained her predicament, and it made complete sense to me. She is in her fifties and looks it, and happily. She doesn’t want to be young, she wants to be her age. She has four kids and she pretty much likes her life and her work; she likes the stage she’s at. This, as she explained it, is what she wants: Grownup clothes that are chic and well made and womanly and made of good fabrics and natural things. She likes wool and silk and cotton. But she wants to look like a grownup woman in the way that grownup women looked when she was a kid. A skirt at mid-calf length, a handsomely fit jacket. Heels. Maybe even a hat. She either said, or I imagined, Katharine Hepburn in the movie “Desk Set.” Hepburn was in early middle age and looked sleek, womanly, mature, but not in a boring way. Chic in a deeper sense, not just an “in style at the moment” way.

My friend made it clear that she feels most high-end woman’s fashion is aimed at making people seem younger, hipper. Sleeveless, short, spare in the modern way. This is not what she wants. I asked her where she does buy clothes. She sort of shrugged and said she tends to default to inexpensive things that are adequate. She said she’ll go to the catalogues and buy something from J. Crew.

Here’s the message for designers: She wants to be spending more money on stuff she loves and not less money on things she doesn’t.

I thought everything she said reasonable, understandable, and an insightful. So, we asked Tina Isaac, whom Joan Juliet Buck knows from Paris Vogue, if there was any hope to be had in the fashion shows they just held in Paris.

The Paris shows as you know are not aimed at the traditional. Young designers are trying to break through with startling and unusual work. (I would say they are unusual in the usual way.) I think they view fashion as a highly sexualized entity, in part because they’re young and live in a highly sexualized business and cultural environment. Also from what I’ve observed reading fashion magazines, a lot of them are intellectuals or think of themselves as intellectuals, in a way that I find abstract and not grounded in a reality I would recognize as reality.

However, what starts in Paris will likely, as Meryl Streep says in her famous speech in “The Devil Wears Prada,” wind up, one way or

40 Reader Comments (so far…) Sign In or Register to comment

Catherine Berlin
Gap gave catering a shot. Forth & Towne lasted about 16 months pushing a June Cleaver Goes to University and Gets Boho. I knew they were in trouble when I realized the store’s acronym was FAT. Priceless.
By Catherine Berlin on 03/10/2008 1:01 pm
Nancy Hamilton
Yes, but it was symptomatic of fashion in general. No one knows how a fabulous >40 woman should look. So, they designed by comittee. I don’t want to borrow bits and pieces of from the <30 set, I want a distinctive fashion aesthetic for adult women.
By Nancy Hamilton on 03/10/2008 2:08 pm
Heddigret K
Hoping this site will offer some direction away from midlife fashion mistakes, the commercialized and exploitive fashion industry, toward both practicality, balance, delight and enjoyment of life. Luxurious and easy care fabrics, not hard on the pocketbook nor hard on the environment, nor costly to the people that make and market them. Comfortable yet structured and elegant fit for divers figures and divers lifes, divers complexions and colorings, and divers work styles. I want to hear opinions of sophisiticated New York personalities and active players on the ‘new stuff’ that’s being presented to us, to help us make good choices, avoid the stuff that ‘costs’ to much, either in the lives and spirit of people, animals, or even our environmental heritage. No sweatshop produced items, no chemical waste creators, no tortured animals, please. No pesticide pollutors, nor rash causing fabrics, crippled workers, or lead containing jewelry. Or, at least, minimally so. At this time of life, I want to make every minute, every action count for what’s really important for me AND the rest of the world. I can’t waste time and resources with fabric care, nor hire people to look after my clothing for me. I want to feel my healthiest, look my best, interact with other people most effectively. I need to feel loved (not so often “lusted” for) and respected, depended upon, and sometime, even feared. I want to be powerful. And I want to feel physcially comfortable moving from one situation through another, and then another, every day in a somewhat more complicated life than I ever envisioned at this point. Comfort is so much more important for me now — shoes, clothing that ‘gives’ a little, fabric that deals with a vast range of ambient temperatures and vastly fluctuation body temperatures, fashion that is uplifting and energizing and fights fatique all day. I love to have peopel respond to me with warmth, to enjoy seeing me coming, but I need to camoflage myself to NOT stand out in a crowd at times (sometimes blending in to the herd ensures basic survival as well). Tall order — hope you all can deliver more than Vogue and the View.
By Heddigret K on 03/10/2008 2:17 pm
Kate Van Sant
Okay, I have been so enthusiastic about this site, then I run into a fur coat prominently displayed. All this experience and wisdom we’re so proud of and we’re willing to cause that kind of AGONY to helpless animals? And when it’s no longer the only way to keep warm and fake is gorgeous? I am SO disappointed. What is feminine wisdom all about if not a high dose of kindness? And, no, I’m not a “barefoot-granola” type, but a student of fashion history, 54 years old, with a master’s degree and speak three languages. Thought I’d found a home on the web. Guess I was wrong.
By Kate Van Sant on 03/10/2008 2:43 pm
Jane Present
Please consider women in their 70s (70 is the new 50) who live in the city that never sleeps, and likes to dress well. What magazine do we consult? Who designs for us. What about those of us who have good hair and skin, exercise daily, have happy marriages, but still want to look terrific. Please do not write us oiff, a couple of you shall not see 60 again either. I have always dressed in a classic style, not faddist, but where, other than Armani (my all-time favorite) do I look now for great “looks” that don’t make me look foolish as a grandmother of four.
By Jane Present on 03/10/2008 9:29 pm
MSK
You want disgusted? I’m in my late 40s - I threw up my hands and started getting my trousers made. So far, They haven’t figured out how to bollicks up a skirt too much, so when I feel strong, I look — Otherwise, 10 years ago I picked up my knitting needles again just so I don’t look like everyone else — even then, I have to rework patterns. What I would like to know is who brought back the tackier elements of the ’70s, hmmm? I could go for the YSL 70s or the Bill Blass. Not this. Ew.
By MSK on 03/11/2008 8:05 am
Ida Diaz
I am turning 50 this year. My husband and I are going to a wedding in Manhattan in July. So my question is this…what is appropiate these days when the invitation states “cocktail attire”? Should I wear the basic black knee length dress? Are slacks permissable with or without a jacket? (remember it’s in July). How about for my husband? Suit or not? Good grief! I don’t look forward to shopping because of all the skimpy stuff that’s out there. Help!
By Ida Diaz on 03/14/2008 1:07 pm
elizabeth wilson
apropos fashion for all of us. please check the website for our small company which has had great success for 30 years making beautiful clothes while avoiding many fashion (and business) pitfalls. asiaticakc.com. elizabeth wilson
By elizabeth wilson on 04/22/2008 5:10 pm
Charles Dance
What about Eillen Fisher…for comfort,sizing,quality,pricing and silk,cotton and linen.
By Charles Dance on 04/27/2008 7:38 am
Jerry Hurtubise

Peggy, I’m so happy to see that you have found your intellectual level:  "…Grownup clothes that are chic and well made and womanly and made of good fabrics and natural things."

Sorry the WSJ thing didn’t work out, but I can’t recall a positive comment about your work there.  The girls of leisure gig is very much more your speed.

By Jerry Hurtubise on 07/21/2009 10:32 pm