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Q & A | 07/08/2009 12:00 am

A Conversation With Keneisha Sinclair: A White Woman Learns About Black Hairstyling

wOw’s Executive Intern Ann Hodgman addresses with her friend the realities of race and hair.
By Ann Hodgman

Editor’s note: Ann Hodgman is part of the wowOwow Executive Intern Program, where experienced editors learn a new skill from our younger, Internet-savvy staff.

Over the years, I’ve watched my friend Keneisha Sinclair’s hair go through endless transformations. One month, it would be relaxed. A couple of months later, it would be braided, with extensions. A couple of months after that, it would be a cloud of ringlets. Since my own white-person’s short hair has basically had the same blah, Mommy-ish layering for 30 years, I love watching Keneisha’s hair morph into a completely new look every time I see her.

Keneisha’s younger than most wowOwow.com readers — she just graduated from Yale — but she’s not too young to have plenty of strongly voiced opinions about female self-image, both black and white, in our culture. (In fact, her college thesis was about female body image.) So I figured she would be the perfect person to ask about black hair.

And I had a lot of questions. Transcribed, our conversation ran to 48 pages! Here are some of the (ahem) highlights.

It sounds as though black girls' hair issues are like white girls' weight issues.

ANN HODGMAN: When I was a little girl at sleepaway camp, the main concern of the black girls at camp was whether their hair was straight — not how it was styled. Do you feel as though "straightness" was the guiding aesthetic for black hair for a long time?

KENEISHA SINCLAIR: Yes, I think so. Especially for little girls, there’s this idea that their hair should be straight and long. But that’s just not the way black hair usually is.

ANN: When did you first start thinking about your hair?

KENEISHA: I didn’t really think about it for a long time because my mom always did my hair for me, and she was really good at it. So I don’t think I thought about it until I wanted to get it relaxed — maybe third grade.

ANN: You had your hair relaxed in third grade?

KENEISHA: Fourth grade. The rule was, I was supposed to wait until I was 13 — but I couldn’t wait anymore. Finally my mom said OK.

ANN: Why couldn’t you wait? Because white girls had straight hair? 

KENEISHA: No — I wasn’t even thinking about it in those ways yet. Having your hair relaxed was what grownup black girls did, and when you’re ten you want to be very, very grown up. (That was the year that I put all my Barbies under my bed.) I wasn’t thinking about it like, "Oh, this is a beauty ideal because of white culture." Not until I was a little bit older did I start thinking about it in that way.

ANN: What’s involved in getting hair relaxed? "My people" don’t know anything about this.

KENEISHA: It’s a really, really frightening process, which is why my mom wanted me to wait. But parents even do this to kindergartners, which is awful.

ANN: Oh, my God. Do they still use lye, like in The Autobiography of Malcolm X?

KENEISHA: No, a relaxer is a little bit more humane at this point, but it’s still really frightening. You get this white creamy stuff, which is the relaxer, put on your head. It’s chemicals — some kind of terrible, low-PH chemicals. You sit there for as long as you can handle it, and then it gets washed out.

ANN: You mean you sit until you reach a certain level of pain?

154 Reader Comments (so far…) Sign In or Register to comment

Chandara Sun
Hair extensions, dreadlocks, and dread perms with hair extensions on the ends are very popular in the belly dance community as well, no matter the race.  I had hair extensions done (baby fine, thin hair) using a pinch-braid technique that allowed me to go about 2-3 months until they needed to be tightened again - 8 hours’ worth of work and expensive, but for the first time in my life, I had long wavy hair past my shoulders, and I felt like a goddess.  It didn’t matter how long I was sitting in that chair - it took about 5 years off my age and being able to flip that hair around - it was a wow!  I finally had them removed when my hair dresser opened her shop a little too far away to be practical for me to drive there, but I still remember how much I loved it.  
By Chandara Sun on 07/08/2009 8:33 am
Linda Bradshaw
I am a white woman with a beautiful 7-year-old African-American daughter, and this conversation has scared me to death.   I’m the one who does Tori’s hair today (wash/condition once a week, then twists all over)… and it is not a happy event at our house.  I’ve been looking forward to the day when we could pursue a relaxer —- in the blind hope that it would be easier / faster / less painful.   Well, this interview has completely changed my mind.   I would LOVE LOVE LOVE to find a fast, low-maintenance, pain-free hairstyle for my active girl.   ANY suggestions???
By Linda Bradshaw on 07/08/2009 8:41 am
Kristy B

Unfortunately, there are no easy suggestions especially with a 7 year old.  I’m glad that you are reconsidering the relaxer because it does burn.  Also, depending on the length and the texture of your daughter’s hair, the relaxer may not completely straighten your daughter’s hair the FIRST time. 

You may consider having your daughter’s straightened or flat ironed.  This would be less maintenance but you would have to make sure that you take care of it while its straightened.  Trust me, getting her straightened can be expensive.  The cost depends on the length and the texture of her hair.

By Kristy B on 07/08/2009 10:08 am
Kristy B
Also, if your daughter scratches her head all the time, I surely wouldn’t recommend a relaxer (perm).  It will feel like fire on her scalp!!
By Kristy B on 07/08/2009 10:13 am
Cheryl Charles
Linda, I am a black woman with a 10-year-old with beautiful hair. Although she is biracial (her dad is white), her hair is (thankfully) more like mine. Don’t be afraid of your daughter’s hair! I started braiding her hair when she was about three years old. And she is tenderheaded (I’m sure by now you know or can figure out what that means), so it’s been a bit of a nightmare. But she loves the end result of having her hair in french braids (cornrows) or even simpler and easier, twists with beads on the ends. They are like single braids all over except you only use two strands instead of three. They are simpler than braids, easier to take in and out and beautiful. I have straightened my daughter’s hair for a different look, but for heaven’s sake, don’t put a relaxer in it! My daughter’s hairdresser says it can ruin hair if put in before the age of 13. Plus, it takes away a lot of options and versatility. Myself, I have dreadlocks, which I have kept and maintained for 14 years. And with respect to the writer of this article, I am a professional woman, and it has never been an issue in the workplace (even though my hair is long enough to sit on). Don’t be afraid to try new styles with your daughter. Most of my daughter’s friends would give their eye teeth to have her hair. I even gave a hair party to show the moms how to do cornrows. And her friends have been asking for another to learn how to do twists. Also look for a black hairdresser, if there is one in your area, who specializes in natural hairstyles. Good Luck!
By Cheryl Charles on 07/08/2009 11:36 pm
Linda Bradshaw
Thank you so much for the feedback.   I have been doing twists in Tori’s hair since she was 2 yrs old, and would love to put her in dreadlocks (my partner objects, so we haven’t pursued it - Yet!).   You don’t happen to live in Milwaukee, do you?  Because I would love to join your hair party LOL.  
By Linda Bradshaw on 07/09/2009 7:12 am
Victoria J

If you are willing to do a bit of investigative work, I may have your solution.  There is a famous Hollywood hairstylist who has over the years worked on finding shampoos and conditioners that help all women keep their healthiest hair.  He has finally come up with some hair products that have eliminated the soap in which is a critical factor in most shampoos and created a soapless shampoo and an incredible conditioner. One of the things that many black women are unaware of  is that often their hair already in a weakened state because of the perms, have that fragilityheighten with hair products that contain wheat protein. Our hair is fragile and protein infused hair products makes it even more so. White hair that does not undergo the perm process, thus they can easily manage the wheat protein shampoos and conditioners.  The shampoo and conditioner I am talking about is called WEN and and can be purchased on www.qvc.com  The shampoo and conditioner is so effective it leaves black hair in such beautiful condition especially virgin hair, that there is no need for a straightner…Go to QVC…click on Beauty, find WEN in the list of Brand names and read through his products. You can also read the reviews of those who have used it.  My girlfriend is white and we use the same shampoo and conditioner. This is a product for black, white or whoever, its for folks who want beautiful healthy hair and the result of these products is to give everyone such beautifully conditioned hair that without a straightner it becomes very straight.  I don’t think this was necessarily a goal when working to develop these products, but it was let’s say an unintended outcome for black women. I can assure you I am a rigorous questioner and investigator and this works well.  On the specific product page on these websites, you can click on the video presentation and watch what happens with the product demonstrations…it works I promse you.

The other item good for black hair…helps keep it straighter in humid and wet weather, is good for the health of the head and promotes growth is Aveda’s Brilliant (anti-humectant pomade). Don’t let the word pomade scare you it is not hair grease:)). Think of it as moisturizer for black hair. You don’t need to use a lot, but it is excellent for black hair. There is also a group of products by called "Carol’s Daughter" produced by a black woman and sold around the country at stores, but it is also sold on the other top home shopping website www.HSN.com    You can go on there and read about it.   I have never used her products and one of the reasons are they are pretty new and she was making them out of her home originally. I think they are probably fine, but probably not as advanced as I want. By that I mean, most adaptions that are new and innovative start because there is a huge market they can serve. I think Carol’s daughter, now successful will eventually do the kind of indept research that will grow its product list in the future.  Wen has been in the hair market for 20 years and his products reflect the knowledge and his focus was not black hair or white hair but wonderfully healthy hair. www.aveda.com  is also an organic group of products that are wonderful for all hair types.  Hold off on the perm for awhile.  good luck!

By Victoria J on 07/09/2009 11:48 am
Marva Marva
I use a product line by Mixed Chicks. Shampoo, conditioner…i wear my hair natural and use the leave in conditioner daily. I am stopped often as asked what products I use.  www.naturallycurly.com. I encourage women to free themselves from the pain of trying to fit into a box.
By Marva Marva on 07/14/2009 2:17 am
M L
Linda, I’m glad you mentioned this. For a lot of blacks, this has absolutely nothing at all to do with trying to fit in, grow up, or resemble another culture. My dad raised me. His trying to comb my hair brought countless tears and screams from me and plenty of frustration on his part as well. I think he finally caved when I was 4 or 5 and got me a "curl." Very similar to a relaxer. I believe you’d call it a perm. Anyway, that was one the best things he’s ever done for me. I graduated to a relaxer in high school, and now I have nice long dreads. My hair is too unmanageable and my scalp painful in its natural state to consider other options. You do what you need to do for you and your child. My relaxer hairdresser and I researched Knottyboy.com for mine. Surprisingly, they are perfect now though started unprofessionally and kept up by only my will and determination. I don’t use products anymore. And, I only twist them when I wash them. I’d probably advise you to seek out a professional if you are interested. The process can be painful, but there are a few different methods to starting them. You can check the knottyboy website for potential stylists in your area. I will tell you that it is a long lengthy process. But once they’ve matured, its certainly worth it. Good luck with your little girl!  :)
By M L on 07/17/2009 1:28 am
Teri LaFlesh

Hi Linda, I hope you don’t mind me suggesting this, but I want to save your daughter what I went through with my hair. I’m biracial (half black/ half white), and for most of my life my hair was relaxed. So for nearly my entire life I had no idea what my own hair looked like. It was broken, short, stiff, crunchy, and singled me out in the Caucasian school, neighborhood and family I was with (I was living with my white dad at the time).  I thought my hair was mutant hair because it acted so differently from the girls around me who could swing their hair over their shoulders and not worry about getting it wet, while I had a head covered in scabs from the chemcials. My hair seemed to be a symbol for how I was different, how I didn’t fit in.  It took me about 30 years to learn to love my hair as it grows naturally from my head, and it’s the best gift I could have given myself. I never wanted anyone else to ever go through what I did, so I put up a site to help parents just like you (and to hopefully save kids from going through what I did with my hair). If you are interested, the site is TightlyCurly.com.

By Teri LaFlesh on 07/17/2009 4:33 pm
Midwest Mom

Thank you for this article.  I have always found it interesting how black women handle their hair, but am afraid that I will sound ignorant if I ask about it.  A few years ago my daughter was taking swimming classes at the local "Y" and there was a little black girl a class that got out just before my daughter.  I would have my little blond jump in the shower & once she got out we would brush her hair & be on our way.  While mine was in the shower I would watch this other mom carefully tending her daughters hair.  I couldn’t help but think how unfair it was.  I remember the little girl would get antsy (she was maybe 6) - I would talk to her & try to entertain her a little.  It reminded me of a friend that told me once that she had to have her kids behave when they left the house - it was a matter of life & death.  Eyebrows shot up & she said, look a misbehaving white boy may get in trouble - a misbehaving black boy could get shot & I am not going to let that happen to my kids.   This was a well educated middle class working mom.  Sadly she was absolutely correct.  The sad fact is that things just are not fair. 

 

I guess my job as a mom is to make sure that my kids grow up understanding that their reality is not the reality that others experience.  We talk often about how other people see situations.  Sometimes when people disagree it isn’t because someone is right & the other is wrong - sometimes they are just seeing things from different views.

By Midwest Mom on 07/08/2009 8:47 am
Victoria J
On gosh, this is all making me a bit crazy…Please understand different black people have different experiences just like different whites have different. Where you live, your economic situations and your family experience. Hair for women is an important thing. And more than straighters, black women lack in a very general sense hair dressers who really know how to cut hair. An excellent hair cut makes a world of different no matter your skin color or hair type.  And while there are brilliant black hairdressers who can cut hair ….not that many spread throughout the country, so much of a black woman’s problem is a bad hair cut. Also you have to pick a really good hairdresser who really knows hair and gets to know your hair. If you don’t have straight hair, then it is an adventure for black women to find THE Hairdresser, who knows how to cut, understands your hair and stays in one shop long enough to create a relationship. But that said, sorry, but none of is has proven to be torturous. I have gotten perms for nearly 40 years and never had a problem. I think many fewer white women get perms these days, but they certain go in and get their hair streaked, highlighted and dyed.  Perms are not one iota different than that. The time spend and any risk factor always rises or is lowered based on the quality of the person doing your hair. My daughter is bi-racial, so hair wasn’t a problem, but for years I have urged my girlfriends to get their daughters a good haircut and when  they are going to go swimming braid their hair if long enough into one long pony tail in the back or some version of that. If they swim quite often because of the chlorine, put in some conditioner so the hair has a coating on it. It also helps the hair not to be tangled and when they get out and get in the shower shampoo it with a no tangle/shampoo/conditioner and you are home free.  Far too many black women in this day and age are doing the same thing they did ten years ago in the maintenance of their hair and perms and don’t try new product.
By Victoria J on 07/09/2009 12:07 pm
Chrome Toe
Wow…. who knew? I’ve read more than one short statement here or there about what black women go through with their hair. But that relaxing thing sounds like torture!!! It’s ironic because whenever I see black women with afros, or dreads or extensions I’m jealous! I love all of those hair styles and they would just look ridiculous on me. Although i’m considering dreads when my hair is gray! seriously. I think afros are the best. But i suppose they are probably real hard to manage. they just look so sexy hot!
By Chrome Toe on 07/08/2009 9:18 am
ann penn

The grass is always greener…  I’m a white woman with hair that wants to be poker straight and totally limp, but I look better with a bit of body and curl, so I get very expensive perms every two or three months…  My hair is so straight I need to start out with a perm that comes out looking like an afro to get it to last more than three weeks.

 My sister got the curls.  When we were in HS she would complain on damp days that her hair was curling while I, after sleeping all night in painful rollers, would see mine go straight as the rollers came out (no perm then).  Sis has always had hair that was wash, dry and go.

I think a woman (of any race) who can wear it very short and natural has it made.  

By ann penn on 07/08/2009 9:59 am
B Clark
I love my long hair, but every once in awhile I think a brush cut would be so nice.
By B Clark on 07/08/2009 10:02 am