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Q & A | 07/08/2009 12:00 am

A Conversation With Keneisha Sinclair: A White Woman Learns About Black Hairstyling

wOw’s Executive Intern Ann Hodgman addresses with her friend the realities of race and hair.
By Ann Hodgman

Editor’s note: Ann Hodgman is part of the wowOwow Executive Intern Program, where experienced editors learn a new skill from our younger, Internet-savvy staff.

Over the years, I’ve watched my friend Keneisha Sinclair’s hair go through endless transformations. One month, it would be relaxed. A couple of months later, it would be braided, with extensions. A couple of months after that, it would be a cloud of ringlets. Since my own white-person’s short hair has basically had the same blah, Mommy-ish layering for 30 years, I love watching Keneisha’s hair morph into a completely new look every time I see her.

Keneisha’s younger than most wowOwow.com readers — she just graduated from Yale — but she’s not too young to have plenty of strongly voiced opinions about female self-image, both black and white, in our culture. (In fact, her college thesis was about female body image.) So I figured she would be the perfect person to ask about black hair.

And I had a lot of questions. Transcribed, our conversation ran to 48 pages! Here are some of the (ahem) highlights.

It sounds as though black girls' hair issues are like white girls' weight issues.

ANN HODGMAN: When I was a little girl at sleepaway camp, the main concern of the black girls at camp was whether their hair was straight — not how it was styled. Do you feel as though "straightness" was the guiding aesthetic for black hair for a long time?

KENEISHA SINCLAIR: Yes, I think so. Especially for little girls, there’s this idea that their hair should be straight and long. But that’s just not the way black hair usually is.

ANN: When did you first start thinking about your hair?

KENEISHA: I didn’t really think about it for a long time because my mom always did my hair for me, and she was really good at it. So I don’t think I thought about it until I wanted to get it relaxed — maybe third grade.

ANN: You had your hair relaxed in third grade?

KENEISHA: Fourth grade. The rule was, I was supposed to wait until I was 13 — but I couldn’t wait anymore. Finally my mom said OK.

ANN: Why couldn’t you wait? Because white girls had straight hair? 

KENEISHA: No — I wasn’t even thinking about it in those ways yet. Having your hair relaxed was what grownup black girls did, and when you’re ten you want to be very, very grown up. (That was the year that I put all my Barbies under my bed.) I wasn’t thinking about it like, "Oh, this is a beauty ideal because of white culture." Not until I was a little bit older did I start thinking about it in that way.

ANN: What’s involved in getting hair relaxed? "My people" don’t know anything about this.

KENEISHA: It’s a really, really frightening process, which is why my mom wanted me to wait. But parents even do this to kindergartners, which is awful.

ANN: Oh, my God. Do they still use lye, like in The Autobiography of Malcolm X?

KENEISHA: No, a relaxer is a little bit more humane at this point, but it’s still really frightening. You get this white creamy stuff, which is the relaxer, put on your head. It’s chemicals — some kind of terrible, low-PH chemicals. You sit there for as long as you can handle it, and then it gets washed out.

ANN: You mean you sit until you reach a certain level of pain?

154 Reader Comments (so far…) Sign In or Register to comment

L. C.
correction specifically
By L. C. on 07/08/2009 7:11 pm
Belinda Joy

L.C. I love you! You have addressed the very quandary of the bravado I speak of that "some" Black women espouse about their hair and looks. Right now I have blond streaks in my hair and everyone who knows me knows I am FAR from being the type of woman that wants to be anyone other than who I am. For me it truly is vanity in term of liking the look. But like you I too judge silently those Blacks I see who in my opinion go over-board in terms of hair and eye color. Indeed, what is that about?

My assumption is if you talk to them long enough you are going to hear anything but self love, but instead self hate. A constant and perpetual habit of comparing themselves to Whites and feeling on some level inferior. Your last post pulled me out of the negative bubble this thread has placed me in. To read of women who have started "Rites of Passage" organizations is wonderful! Because words really do have power.  To be told you are "less than" by your family, friends, on TV, on the radio, in school, everywhere you turn in your country….you will begin to believe you are less. But those who are given positive reinforcement and told and shown that they are of value, beauty and worth have healthy self esteem and are like Teflon.

By Belinda Joy on 07/08/2009 8:22 pm
Mary Quite-Contrary

Belinda you have been a wealth of insight on this thread…but I have to add a little commentary of my own to your assessment of "….judging those Blacks I see who in my opinion go over-board in terms of hair and eye color…" What is that about…

From my point of view, in the retail/hair care world…a trendy fashion statement.  Like the uber natural blonde girls who want to go ‘Goth’ (heavy black dye job); to the Black girls who want to be blonde or auburn; its just doing something strikingly different.  I take it as moving beyond making a ‘statement’ about your ancestory…and just moving into a ‘look’ you create for the moment…who the young woman is at that moment.  Hair is one of the most transitional ways to change your look (it will grow out or back). 

It relates to ageism as well as racism.  Ask yourself how many ‘old’ (ie gray haired people you see).  Not as many now as when we were growing up…why is that?  I read a wonderful article, several years ago…forget by who…Nora Ephron maybe…but the writer asked where have all the old people gone?  A few gray haired men for sure…but women?  Are we all getting younger…no.  We (for the most part) dye our hair.  Market research shows that women buy different shades; and change their color preferences.  There is a wealth of ‘better living thru chemistry’ out there…and I trully think that we have come full circle…and we can (any race or age) change our looks at our whim (well at least hair wise). 

And you are sooo correct…lye (like color ‘strippers’ and metallics in dyes) are long gone.  Ladies…if you do anything ‘chemically’ to your hair…hug the next Chemical Engineer you meet.

By Mary Quite-Contrary on 07/08/2009 10:11 pm
Belinda Joy

You’re right Mary, Ageism is another aspect to think of when it comes to women and their hair. However what I was talking about in terms of Blacks going too far in terms of changing their looks would be Michael Jackson. He represented the epitome of self hatred. To go so far as erase all hint of African ancestry is in my opinion too far. Lesser examples are the Blacks who dye their hair blond AND pop in colored contacts. The blond hair aspect is not a big deal, as I said I have blond streaks in my hair now and I think I look good.

The difficult thing Mary is (and I agree with you totally about self expression) where does the line between self expression end and an attempt to cover up self hatred begin? It’s blurred sometimes, and especially among Black people. Some (and I would argue many) don’t even recognize it themselves. It’s like the use of the N-word. So many throw it around and justify its use by claiming they have "owned" it. Not realizing they have took ownership of what? A derogatory term that bruised hundreds of thousands of their ancestors for years.

This is a complex subject to discuss and one that can be educational if handled correctly.

By Belinda Joy on 07/09/2009 9:10 am
J. Young

Well, I hate to disagree wth you but I must.  The mere fact that we are having a conversation about a "white womaan wanting to discuss black HAIR!"  As Ms. Liz says, PLEEZE.  There are more important things to discuss about issues in the world than "Black Hair" that is so passe, so declasse.  We have evolved.  There is no one that I know and last time i checked I’ve been black since birth…no-one I know that is black feels one way privately about their hair and one way publicly.  I mean come on.  Hair is different in texture among all races.  I mean why not have a discussion about Asian hair, Norweigan (sp.) etc.  I think we have pretty much evolved on a lot of levels and we as women, intelligent women do not need to be discussing hair unless we are discussing it in terms of hair nurturing products and/or what is damaging to ALL Hair not just black, white or green hair.

I do not understand why you felt the need to say you do not express yourself in the manner in which I do, what is that?  What does that mean?  I thought you articulated very well…and so did I, I was just bored with the topic, I mean I feel its racist on its face.  What’s the point?  Evolve, grow, find new areas of intellectual discourse, "white women wanting to know about black hair"…go to a professional cosmetolgist, oh wait, there are professional stylist who pretend they do not know how to do "black Hair" Now that’s a better topic.  Why, My stylist who is foreign knows how to do ALL HAIR TYPES, because she was raised in a cutlure that did all hair types.  Why is it when you go into so called white salons, they pretendn they cannot do our hair, I find that topic infinitely more interresting than "white women talking about a black woman’s hair and how she feels about it"  Ridiculous, on it’s face.  You got the point and you understood my point very well.  I get tired of being sick and tired and I say that with all due respect.

This is a ridiculous conversation at best.  Can we move on?  Or better yet, if you want to discuss hair, why not discuss how hair extensions are damaging to all hair.  People are just making money off of people.  And a lot of the products out here are terrible.  Again, people making money on people and selling them plain trash.  It is very damaging to the hair and not nurturing at ALL.  If you want to discuss hair and not just black hair and how we feel about hour hair, talk about hair and the nuturing of it and how to take care of it.  All hair types and stop with the racist regresson.

That’s all.  Now what does that mean in your family you are in the minority.  I don’t get that.  What are you saying about your hair?  Hmmm?  Matter of fact, what are you saying about your families hair that they would discuss it differently in private then they would in public.  See stuff like that…sista get a clue.

Peace out!

By J. Young on 07/08/2009 10:26 pm
Belinda Joy

My initial response to you was not a slight in any way, to the contrary it was a compliment. I appreciate women who are direct with their opinions and express them in a clear and assertive manner. You labeled this discussion for what it truly is, and I essentially complimented you on being assertive enough to do so. However now that you have insulted me and shown you lack intelligence in certain regards, I see I am not dealing with an intelligent and savvy outspoken Black woman, but instead what I define as a loud mouth. The "sista-sista & I’m Black 24-7!" stereotype of Black women. So I will respond in a way I hope you can understand.

First of all, you said there is no one and has been no one in your life that feels different privately than publicly about their hair? You are a fortunate Black woman indeed. I don’t know how old you are, but for you to have lived a life where NO ONE has ever made a comment about their hair being "too kinky" or "nappy" and the need of wanting a relaxer. NO ONE ever making comments in school about that "nappy headed so & so…"  To have lived as long as you have where not one Black woman in the company of Whites spoke of how they love their hair, yet when it was just you and her privately never said "girl I need to do somethin’ about my naps, I have to look good and this just ain’t gettin’ it!"   Really J. Young, never? Yes, you are indeed a lucky woman. But you are not the norm, the reality is Black women speak in derogatory manners about their hair all the time, never realizing that it is a form of self hatred.

WoW was right to run this thread because it is something that is a taboo subject among us, as are many topics that have an underlying racist undertone. We don’t want to go there, but sometimes we should. There are White women who see Black women with dreads or braids, waves and the like, and wonder how we got our hair that way. And with the country becoming browner each day with the increase in interracial dating and babies born who are biracial, understanding and demystifying the subject of "Black hair" is even more important.   There are a whole of of biracial kids out there being raised by White women who know absolutely nothing about caring for Black hair and as a result their kids suffer. So yes, WoW should have broached this subject and I for one am glad they did.

Lastly (and this is where you really showed your ignorance) to save yourself embarrassment in the future, when you read or hear someone say the phrase "I’m in the minority in that regard" it means they are not in the majority on an issue. Meaning there are more people who think or feel one way about something than not. Example: J.Young says she has never heard a Black woman complain about her hair privately in a way that she wouldn’t confess to publicly. Belinda Joy says J. Young is in the minority in that regard" Meaning Belinda Joy thinks J. Young’s opinion is not shared as much as others.

Do you understand now…sista?

By Belinda Joy on 07/09/2009 8:52 am
J. Young

Ok.  How do I respond to something like this?  WIth patience, with a reluctance to engage?  Belinda, (Sista) I think the best way is two-fold.  First, I am, in answer to your question 54 years of age.  One of the first lessons I learned from my family was that you do not under any circimstances refer to an individual as "ignorant".  You are a host interviewee for this Blog and for you to even insinuate because I refered to you again in what I was taught as a proud black woman, is a term of endearment towards Black Women just as "Brother" or "Bro" is a term reserved for Black men.  Why would the term "Sista" cause you to define me as a "loud mouth sereotype of Black women" when you yourself termed it as a stereotypical degrading term?  Why would the term ‘Sista cause you to become this enraged, feel insulted and result in behaviour that belittles your level of education.  What is Yale teaching our younguns these days! 

Whew!  Honey chile, I never show my ignorance about a subject like this.  Without being redundant, I logged on to the site saw the question posed and dealt with it in a brief and concise manner.  I think I made very good points.  There was no compliment in your response to me at all.  The first dig was when you made a reference to "nasty exchanges" and we had to "tip-toe" around the issue of racism.  Why was there a need to tip toe?  And where was the nasty exchange?  I’m still looking for it.  There was nothing nasty, or belligerent about my response at all and if you took exception to being referred to as a "Sista" then I have to tell you, I think you are suffering from exactly what you are accusing other women of color as being diseased with…self hatred.  Further, you then go on to state…"I may not be able to relate or express myself in the manner in which you do…." exactly what manner was that?  We both used the King’s English?  I wasn’t speaking a foriegn language, nor were any of my post in all caps, so why would you make a statement like  …"I see I am not dealing with an intelligent and savvy outspoken Black woman, but instead what I define as a loud mouth. The "sista-sista & I’m Black 24-7!" stereotype of Black women…"  I really think that you suffer from what you accuse others of suffering from.  Why would I suddenly become the "loud mouth" sereotype of Black women and why would you as a woman of color use such terms to define me?   So I will address this issue for clarity. 

I was raised in the South and hale proudly from a highly educated African-American family of African, Irish, Scottish, Cherokee Indian and God knows what else stock.  My family, all the way back to just after the days of slavery, have been well educated, WELL EDUACATED.  My Grandparents and Great Grands were the contemporaries of Booker T. Washington and other bright stars of the Black Movement, the movement that really got things done.  We were never allowed to address ourselves in deroggatory terms.  So yes in terms of your question, Yes, I have NEVER experienced from the women in my family nor the women in the neighborhood in which I was raised, nor the community, women who were ashamed of their hair, their skin color or anything else and that is why I can speak in the manner in which I speak.  I am a product of that type of mentality, which is why I can write the way I do and have little patience for imprudence.  I am able to know it when I see it and address it in kind.  A poster admonished you earlier about being confused with using colloquial terms of endearment as opposed to seeing it as a manifest for being immershed in self hatred.  Preposterous! 

You then continue on to say that you were the "living proof of a Black woman who wears her hair in many different ways, color or length that you want, without the slightest care of what others think, but how you think on this subject and those around you and in your family…’You’ are in the minority.." Your quote not mine. 

I believe I asked for clarity on what you meant by that because the way I interpreted that statement and I do believe I got you right, was that you were in the minority about feeling pride about your hair, which infers that the women in your family and around you do not feel the same way.  So my dear one, why should I feel embarrased because I do read with comprehension.  And you stated it was "YOUR" opinon, (excuse me while I clear MY THROAT) that Black women almost always feel to the contrary.  My guess (sadly) in America, many Black women would chose the white doll. 

That is just plain wrong Belinda, and very outrageous.  Did you not hear the controversy about the BRATZ dolls?  And Mattel had to sue them because the Bratz dolls were outselling Barbie 5 to 1?  I mean!

So as an older African-American women who comes proudly from African-American, Cherokee Indian, Irish, Scottish family, who have men and women in our family who’s skin is as black as ebony and as white as snow and hair as soft as lamb’s wool and in color, tawny as strands upon a harp, or as golden as a morning’s dawn.  I have lived a wonderful life, and learned the lessons of my mothers and fathers and the lessons set aside for me in this life. 

I take great exception to your response to me, but given I am the olde rand wiser of the two, I would respond with gentleness and wisdom.  But I have to say and I say this gently, you should be ashamed of yourself.  I have read a lot of the responses to this post and there have been some exceptional ones.  I dont’ know where you were educated throughout your educational journey as I am sure it was not just Yale who educated you but your mother, father, perhaps and your extended family.  You had to have had a brain before you entered Yale.  Yale was not a gift to you my dear, but precisely the opposite.  You were a gift to Yale.  My Uncle Ezekeial taught us never to call anyone "stupid, ignorant nor crazy", it is by my family’s yardstick blasphemous before God and and a slight against Gods gift, the human being my child. 

If I can pass that on to you I will.  I believe very strongly the pen is mightier than the sword, but never allow discourse to make you become small and caustic against those that are responding from the wealth of experience or lack thereof, as to make you so unsure and inadequate that you lash out with name calling. 

It belittles you and your Ivy league education.

Now there has been tremendous information on here from real "Sista"s who don’t take the term as deroggatory at all, but embrace it.  Why you seem to have a problem with it again points to self hatred. 

Sista, is a term of endearment between Black Women and I have used it with my white women friends as well.  Have you ever heard Ruby Dee use the term Sista in a poetry reading?  The term perhaps you might have taken exception to was "get a clue"  perhaps that is what set you off, truth be told, but I was right to say that, you needed to get a clue and stop repeating racial stereotypes which is what you’ve done all along the road on this particular post.  Just rehashing old wounds.  However, advising you to get a clue, I meant no harm, but to do just that, get a clue from what you are saying little sista.

Again, Peace, discover the beauty of what it means to be Black, happy and proud.

Here’s a poem from Delta Sigma Theta’s album Roses and Revolution

 

I’m not a young girl, nor do I wish to be,

I’m not a young girl,  except inside you see,

I’m not that old I’m sure you know,

I just believe that as you age, you grow,

and I have lived this long and made it to this place,

Black Woman I struggling to be brave, Black woman I and yet a girl afraid,

I’m not a young girl, nor do I wish to be,

Hey, I am a WOMAN, healthy, shaped and READY

Consideration…is key.

  
By J. Young on 07/09/2009 7:14 pm
Belinda Joy

Hmmm…you’re a 54 year old Black woman that uses the slang "Peace Out" - yes I was indeed right to define you in the way I did.

And in regard to your Delta poem, given that I am closely related to Delta Sorers I will only say, this too tells me all I need to know about you.

I must pat myself on the back for this one, I hit the nail right on the head. (Hmmmm…you may not understand that terminology either….) Bless your heart.

By Belinda Joy on 07/09/2009 8:02 pm
Victoria J
Belinda puhleeze…I don’t know your family and friends, but honey in this day and age…they are indeed in the minority.  Make sure you are making a clear distinction…between the normal private bitching because of the hair hassle and a lack of personal black pride. I also think you offer a false conclusion. Straight hair is not about being white…Asian have straight, Indian Asians have straight hair…and since whites and Asians didn’t concoct this staight hair…it was a result of human evolution…how does one sell out preferring straight hair? The brainwash has worked if you are telling me a preference for efficacy is a white attribute?  I don’t know one black woman, who if she could have hair that she could wash and walk, would also require white skin in that tradeoff.  If black women could choose straight black hair they would want it in accompaniment  all their existing black glory. It’s not about wanting to be white and hating to be black…It’s about not having to hassle after going swimming or getting caught in a downpour…nothing more!
By Victoria J on 07/09/2009 1:01 pm
Belinda Joy

I want you to listen to what I have to say and try to follow my mindset. Because what you have said in this thread can not go ignored, it is an ignorant statement that demands education. If I am the only Black woman on this site to give you that education, so be it.

If black women could choose straight black hair they would want it in accompaniment  all their existing black glory. It’s not about wanting to be white and hating to be black…It’s about not having to hassle after going swimming or getting caught in a downpour…nothing more!

Let me explain something to you Victoria and what is so WRONG about what you have written.  The United States and throughout the world there are MILLIONS of Black women with nappy, kinky hair that LOVE going swimming and could care less about their hair getting wet. They do not feel the need to rush out and add chemicals to their hair to straighten it to assure that it remains straight.

The African Americans that first came to this country had kinky, nappy hair and had no problem with it. They had self love. Then came the introduction of White people and subsequently a difference in appearance, straight hair, light skin, etc. and unfortunately the rape of countless Black women by slave masters which resulted in biracial children. Children with lighter skin and a "different" texture of hair.  These new biracial people because of their skin color and hair texture were allowed to work in the master’s house, while the black skinned, nappy and kinky headed Blacks were left to work in the fields. Which is where the term "field Nig#%r and house Nig#%r came from.

And from the experience Blacks who worked the field began to compare themselves to those who worked in the house. They began to see their hair, skin, lips and noses as inferior attributes to others. After slavery they began the process of attempting to assimilate within the U.S. by learning to walk, talk, and yes, look as close as they could come, to White people. Hence the inventions by African Americans of hair relaxers and pressing combs.

So your statement and belief that Black women fear a downpour or raining because of the "hassle" of dealing with their hair afterward only serve to confirm my assertion that racism does play a role in how SOME (Not ALL) Black women perceive their hair in comparison to others races that have naturally straight hair. If Black people from the days they were brought over here on slave ships had been infused with a strong internal self esteem, no one would have felt the need to begin the process of altering their appearance so that they looked "less ethnic"

So I hope you now understand the correlation between a Black woman feeling the need to have her hair straightened for a need of avoiding the "hassles" (as you describe it) of coping with natural hair, and that of Black women who have a healthy self esteem about their ancestry and natural hair and their ability and ease of dealing with their hair. Because you see Victoria, what you and other White women perceive as a hassle for many Black women is not an issue. 

And even though you didn’t address it on this response, I need to inform you of something because you have shown yourself to be woefully ignorant on the subject on another post.  If you are indeed using any product of your biracial child(rens) heads that DOES NOT have an oil base or oil of any kind in the contents, you are damaging the hair. As I said the objective is to hydrate the hair not grease it down. If you’re going to respond to posts I make, do me a favor and at least read what I have said first. Because by you’re not doing so you come across as IGNORANT!  

By Belinda Joy on 07/09/2009 7:31 pm
J. Young
Belinda, STOP CALLING PEOPLE IGNORANT.  SIsta girl.  YOu have lot to learn and you are not paying attention.  it is becoming increawsingly annoying to read your responses when you call people ignorant.  No one has called  you ignornat, yet you are falling prey to that even.  You show your ignorance by falling to that level.  THat woman is entitled to speak and say what she feels.  If you are so BLACK, then cut off your curly hair and wear it short like the true native tribes of Africa.  And do you know what those tribes are even?
By J. Young on 07/09/2009 7:54 pm
Belinda Joy

You are an amusing 54 year old Black woman. You use phrases like "Sista Girl" and "Peace Out" and now you have actually stated: "it is becoming increawsingly annoying to read your responses when you call people ignorant."

Amazing. This is how a blog site works J. Young. My name is Belinda Joy and my photo is posted, so you Don’t Have To Read anything I have posted.  I assure you, you won’t turn into a pillar of salt if you ignore various bloggers on the WoW site. You won’t lose your hair or eyesight, nothing bad will happen to you. So if it is becoming (I believe you meant) increasingly annoying to read my responses to various posts, you don’t have to, simply ignore them.

Now see, wasn’t that painless. :-)


By Belinda Joy on 07/09/2009 8:27 pm
J. Young

ANd now you have a problem with the word Peace-Out?  ARe  you having a complete melt down Belinda?  Something is very wrong with you, continue on, I would love to see how far you would actually go.  Yes I am a 54 year old who uses Peace Out and more, what more do you have to say about that.  Bring it On if you are so brazen…and well you are showing what’s between your ears, practically nothing.

Again, P-E-A-C-E- O-U-T!

In case you do not know the meaning of the word:  Here I will define it for you.  ‘Peace’ started being used as a greeting in the 1960s. ‘Out’ comes from a standard way of finishing a conversation on a two-way radio — ‘over and out’.

 

By J. Young on 07/09/2009 9:07 pm
J. Young

Well why should i address you by your name when you stoop to the level of what you are calling everyone else.  Have some class about yourself Belinda, you are sinking very low.  You attack me because I use a phrase such as Peace Out!  You’re  monsterous truly.  Now I know why they chose you to interview, you’re absolutely ridiculous.  Figures.

Peace Out! 

 

By J. Young on 07/09/2009 9:11 pm
Victoria J
Belinda, you are an arrogant silly girl, who thinks more of herself than anyone else could possibly think of you. I doubt you have done much with your life except congratulate yourself on having made it to an Ivy League school. Honey I have lived a long time and the one thing I know for certain. Nobody on this earth gets to define for me how black I am or am not. Save your bullying rhetoric for somebody who thinks you represent black folks. I know you haven’t a clue about anything but your huge unadulterated ego.  The rest of the hogwash you write on here has nothing to do with anything relevant in my life. To me you one spoiled child. Honey, go find somebody who will marry you, have some kids and grow the hell up!
By Victoria J on 07/10/2009 9:03 am