Q & A | 07/08/2009 12:00 am
A Conversation With Keneisha Sinclair: A White Woman Learns About Black Hairstyling

Editor’s note: Ann Hodgman is part of the wowOwow Executive Intern Program, where experienced editors learn a new skill from our younger, Internet-savvy staff.
Over the years, I’ve watched my friend Keneisha Sinclair’s hair go through endless transformations. One month, it would be relaxed. A couple of months later, it would be braided, with extensions. A couple of months after that, it would be a cloud of ringlets. Since my own white-person’s short hair has basically had the same blah, Mommy-ish layering for 30 years, I love watching Keneisha’s hair morph into a completely new look every time I see her.
Keneisha’s younger than most wowOwow.com readers — she just graduated from Yale — but she’s not too young to have plenty of strongly voiced opinions about female self-image, both black and white, in our culture. (In fact, her college thesis was about female body image.) So I figured she would be the perfect person to ask about black hair.
And I had a lot of questions. Transcribed, our conversation ran to 48 pages! Here are some of the (ahem) highlights.
| It sounds as though black girls' hair issues are like white girls' weight issues. |
ANN HODGMAN: When I was a little girl at sleepaway camp, the main concern of the black girls at camp was whether their hair was straight — not how it was styled. Do you feel as though "straightness" was the guiding aesthetic for black hair for a long time?
KENEISHA SINCLAIR: Yes, I think so. Especially for little girls, there’s this idea that their hair should be straight and long. But that’s just not the way black hair usually is.
ANN: When did you first start thinking about your hair?
KENEISHA: I didn’t really think about it for a long time because my mom always did my hair for me, and she was really good at it. So I don’t think I thought about it until I wanted to get it relaxed — maybe third grade.
ANN: You had your hair relaxed in third grade?
KENEISHA: Fourth grade. The rule was, I was supposed to wait until I was 13 — but I couldn’t wait anymore. Finally my mom said OK.
ANN: Why couldn’t you wait? Because white girls had straight hair?
KENEISHA: No — I wasn’t even thinking about it in those ways yet. Having your hair relaxed was what grownup black girls did, and when you’re ten you want to be very, very grown up. (That was the year that I put all my Barbies under my bed.) I wasn’t thinking about it like, "Oh, this is a beauty ideal because of white culture." Not until I was a little bit older did I start thinking about it in that way.
ANN: What’s involved in getting hair relaxed? "My people" don’t know anything about this.
KENEISHA: It’s a really, really frightening process, which is why my mom wanted me to wait. But parents even do this to kindergartners, which is awful.
ANN: Oh, my God. Do they still use lye, like in The Autobiography of Malcolm X?
KENEISHA: No, a relaxer is a little bit more humane at this point, but it’s still really frightening. You get this white creamy stuff, which is the relaxer, put on your head. It’s chemicals — some kind of terrible, low-PH chemicals. You sit there for as long as you can handle it, and then it gets washed out.
ANN: You mean you sit until you reach a certain level of pain?























154 Reader Comments (so far…) Sign In or Register to comment
As my grandmother would say upon meeting you and listening to you…"My goodness child, you are full of yourself." Amen!
Belinda, this isn’t unique to black or biracial kids. I myself feel a need to have straight hair at all times. That’s why I used to tape my hair to my neck with masking tape when I was a little girl. For my entire life (I’m 53), the white ideal for women’s hair has been the same: long and straight. It took me a long time to accept the fact that I would never be able to conform to that ideal, and I still hate my hair. My husband has always hated his hair because it’s too flyaway. At a certain point, people of all races decide how much they’re going to try to contol things about themselves that can’t ultimately be changed. I think it’s more helpful to hear women’s individual stories here than generalizations about race. What’s your story? What shaped YOU? That’s what I really care about.
Ann,
While I admire your willingness to take on Keneisha’s challengers…its probably best she respond on her own. she looks like a young woman who can take of herself. I don’t equate your inquiry to racism either, but I think you hardly understood that Keneisha’s experience can’t stand as the experience for all black women. That was basically my problem with the discussion…you can’t say black women thus and so. You can say "some" black women which is more factual and for me entirely acceptable. Welcome to the public forum…
Victoria, since a) Keneisha is in the process of moving to another state right now; b) is my kids’ age; and c) agreed to this interview solely as a favor to me, without knowing where it might lead, I do feel protective of her. I understand that her experience isn’t the only one that speaks for black people. No one person can represent her whole race! (I don’t even represent my whole mind some of the time.) I CAN say on Keneisha’s behalf that she’s all too experienced about the challenges young black women face living in the U. S., and more than equal to them. But when she’s settled into her new life in a new city, I hope she can return to these boards and not find that people have been uncivil. /// Without going into detail here, I’d like to say that I’m acquainted with issues in the black community, and well informed about black history in the U. S. I’m not a newcomer to the topic of race even if I don’t know much about black hair. I tend not to ask people personal questions—although if you look in the Book Party section on this website, you’ll see that I also interviewed Anne Kreamer about going gray. I used to think you could write a whole novel about hair. Now I think it could be a 12-book series.
Respectfully I must say no M Noski, I’m not wrong. This may be an argument of which came first the chicken or the egg because the plumpness "roundness" of the hair follicle is based on the amount of oil within. The more oil the plumper and rounder the follicle, the less oil, the flatter or "curlier" the follicle.
I learned about the scientific differences between Blacks and Whites when I was in grade school. Our differences in hair, skin, etc. so unless research has changed over the last 40+ plus years, I can only speak from what I was taught as a child.
Oh Belinda…we used to have silly girls like you in school. We used to call them know it alls. They were usually a little chunky, and to cover up their insecurities, they became verbal bullies. What you THink you know and the truth of the matter seem destined to rarely meet.
wow… all this about Hair? At least you all have some. (no disrespect intended)
My co worker lost all of hers in her fight with cancer. Personally I think she looks fierce in a high fashion way with her short hair, but she wants her mane back.
Before my cousin lost her battle with cancer, she lost her hair too.
As for the racism - there is a lot of talk of "what happened" "in the past" "we have always been" - why not focus on now and proactivity? And I am saying this from an outside point of view as a 1st generation Cuban in the US. And as you all know, Cubans are black and white, and it was never really an issue - we are cuban either way and never had the race issues I see here in the US. As for now, I honestly don’t see much of it in my generation (X). Neither do my black and white friends of generation X and Y. We all are guessing that by generation Z, black/white issues will be gone.
If the pantheon intended for us to look the same, we would. Obvoiusly this is not the case. My sister flaunts her wild "black" cuban hair, curls, frizz and all - and I am envious. I have the straight "white" cuban hair that perms, curlers, hair product, and heat can’t even bring life to….and my sister never spares me her jealousy. Age old lament of "the grass is greener" between sisters, no?
Amazing how true the statement "hair is a woman’s crowning jewel."
People and Instant Sorting
My first husband and I both knew of Native American ancestry when we got married. Both our children were instantly tagged Caucasian upon birth. They were born with dark hair that grew in blond then gradually changed dark again. Little white kids, but they’re anything but WHITE. My eldest son was asked about race in middle school and everyone assumed he was Mexican. It went, “why are you so dark, are you a Mexican?” When my daughter, now 18, transferred to city schools to try them out, there was a big open debate on her race in the biracial/ people of color scene. Her once curly blond hair had turned dark and straight. What she had called Pocahontas hair. I wasn’t genetically engineering these children this is just what happened. It seemed the American genes won out in their bodies.
But when my daughter with full lips people pay for these days and dark features became a way to decide if you were part of the group or not, I really thought, “this is crazy”. I began to resent the questions on job applications that want you to check a box and squash the urge to write, “NUNYA” on them every time. Give me a blood test I really want to know myself if it is that important to everyone. No, it is not we still in every day life want to check and go. Meet quotas and prejudge. We threw them a curve with our children they were not easily sorted. (It strangely reminds me of eddie murphy’s skit on SNL about people of color dressed up as white people) I don’t know one of her grandfather’s ancestries not their bloodlines, due to the fact that as near as the twentieth century people adopted orphaned children to do work for them and sometimes they slept in a barn. More than that, I am not raising puppies with the AKC we are people.
Now, we can make out like it is a two dimensional issue, but our president if you accessed his campaign site, seemed to think there were more than black and white issues going on in this country. I agree with him. I also agree with the term First Americans used in the Obama campaign because we’re now at this point in time, (despite the ugly things in the past) are Native Americans if we are born on the lands. (I haven’t consulted the foreign nations around Oklahoma and other states to see how they feel about this term.) Since, the media doesn’t want to ask these types of questions I guess it is up to us. They seem to want scandal and numbers and I am just tired of it. We call the ones who went south or came from the south Mexicans and Latinos and Hispanics because of their language but they’re not usually involved in these discussions online.
Forgive my frustration; I did like the article it is informative to hear what people with different types of hair do to manage it. It has opened a history box, you could call it Pandora’s box but that’s not what it is. We have not achieved the dream just because we elected one person to the highest office.
Hair matters it mattered to my daughter and her peers in high school. I dye mine different colors at different times. What do you girls think of bald men? I’ve always been attracted to attitude more than hair… which somewhat supports what other posters have said about women.
Thank you Keneisha for sharing. I didn’t know exactly what happened in some young children’s life. I didn’t know it was painfulJennifer Michaels
Please read the posts by Belinda Joy.
ann hodgman
The following is a book list and websites for those persons desiring to explore the subject of Black Hair further.
Book List
"Happy To Be Nappy and Other Stories of Me", Bell Hooks
Black Natural Hairstyles-Revealing The Unspeakable Truth" (This book answers questions of why Blackwomen straighten their hair.) blackhairstylestruth.com
"Black Hair Matters: Beauty, Power and Black Women’s Consciousness", Ingrid Banks
"Andre Talks Hair", Andre
"Beautiful Black Hair Real Solutions to Real Problems"
www.longlocks.com/hairstyles-library.htm
Ann & Keneisha, thanks so much for leting us in on your dialogue. So many times, fear of looking racist prevents people from asking questions. Something as mundane as "tell me about your hair" can be misconstrued and offensive when it was not intended as such. I loved being a fly on the wall for your conversation!
I haven’t heard you say one thing about your "guest" hoster calling people Ignorant. I don’t feel any of the posters were angrey or belligerent or deserved to be called out of their posted monikers. And yes, you are right, I did make that mistake and thank God for correcting me, as I was beginning to wonder how on earth Belinda made it through Yale. What a relief!
And it is a dalogue, apparently you all didn’t hear what you wanted to hear.
Peace Out!