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Q & A | 07/08/2009 12:00 am

A Conversation With Keneisha Sinclair: A White Woman Learns About Black Hairstyling

wOw’s Executive Intern Ann Hodgman addresses with her friend the realities of race and hair.
By Ann Hodgman

Editor’s note: Ann Hodgman is part of the wowOwow Executive Intern Program, where experienced editors learn a new skill from our younger, Internet-savvy staff.

Over the years, I’ve watched my friend Keneisha Sinclair’s hair go through endless transformations. One month, it would be relaxed. A couple of months later, it would be braided, with extensions. A couple of months after that, it would be a cloud of ringlets. Since my own white-person’s short hair has basically had the same blah, Mommy-ish layering for 30 years, I love watching Keneisha’s hair morph into a completely new look every time I see her.

Keneisha’s younger than most wowOwow.com readers — she just graduated from Yale — but she’s not too young to have plenty of strongly voiced opinions about female self-image, both black and white, in our culture. (In fact, her college thesis was about female body image.) So I figured she would be the perfect person to ask about black hair.

And I had a lot of questions. Transcribed, our conversation ran to 48 pages! Here are some of the (ahem) highlights.

It sounds as though black girls' hair issues are like white girls' weight issues.

ANN HODGMAN: When I was a little girl at sleepaway camp, the main concern of the black girls at camp was whether their hair was straight — not how it was styled. Do you feel as though "straightness" was the guiding aesthetic for black hair for a long time?

KENEISHA SINCLAIR: Yes, I think so. Especially for little girls, there’s this idea that their hair should be straight and long. But that’s just not the way black hair usually is.

ANN: When did you first start thinking about your hair?

KENEISHA: I didn’t really think about it for a long time because my mom always did my hair for me, and she was really good at it. So I don’t think I thought about it until I wanted to get it relaxed — maybe third grade.

ANN: You had your hair relaxed in third grade?

KENEISHA: Fourth grade. The rule was, I was supposed to wait until I was 13 — but I couldn’t wait anymore. Finally my mom said OK.

ANN: Why couldn’t you wait? Because white girls had straight hair? 

KENEISHA: No — I wasn’t even thinking about it in those ways yet. Having your hair relaxed was what grownup black girls did, and when you’re ten you want to be very, very grown up. (That was the year that I put all my Barbies under my bed.) I wasn’t thinking about it like, "Oh, this is a beauty ideal because of white culture." Not until I was a little bit older did I start thinking about it in that way.

ANN: What’s involved in getting hair relaxed? "My people" don’t know anything about this.

KENEISHA: It’s a really, really frightening process, which is why my mom wanted me to wait. But parents even do this to kindergartners, which is awful.

ANN: Oh, my God. Do they still use lye, like in The Autobiography of Malcolm X?

KENEISHA: No, a relaxer is a little bit more humane at this point, but it’s still really frightening. You get this white creamy stuff, which is the relaxer, put on your head. It’s chemicals — some kind of terrible, low-PH chemicals. You sit there for as long as you can handle it, and then it gets washed out.

ANN: You mean you sit until you reach a certain level of pain?

154 Reader Comments (so far…) Sign In or Register to comment

L. C.

ann hodgman

This is an opportunity for women of all ethnicity’s to dialog. Again, I must respectfully disagree with you. There is no argument! … I’m afraid what is happening here is a cultural disconnect. Because you do not have a knowledge and profound understanding of African American cultural nuances, your perception of what is taking place is incorrect. Cultural traditions vary and included in these are speaking and emoting styles. Some persons are very passionate while others are not. This does not mean that an argument is taking place.

This is an opportunity for one of the most powerful and insightful learning experiences you will ever have. Several of the women have spoken honestly minus all the so-called political correctness. They have opened doors and revealed truths long kept hidden or not discussed in public.

Do not be afraid of your lack of the command of the subject matter. Everyone is in this together to learn and develop understandings. To threaten the pulling of posts is to stop what has been an important dialog.

Your words: None of us is betraying her culture by doing anything to her hair!

This is a poor choice of words. It implys that if one wears a specific hairstyle attributed to another ethnicity that person is a traitor to their ethnicity.

1. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder.

2. Every culture is beautiful.

3. Women can wear their hair however they like. Freedom of choice.

4. African American hair is versatile and can be worn in every style imaginable.

5. African American women who wear their hair straighten are not glorifying another ethnicity nor demonstrating self-hatred. They’re merely wearing their hairstyle of choice. Their choice can be straight on Monday and braids on Tuesday. This is the beauty and versatility of Black hair.

6. Caucasian women are not demonstrating self-hatred by showing an interest and /or admiring the beauty and versatility of Black Hair or any ethnicitys hair.

7. Caucasian women are not demonstrating self-hatred by desiring to wear hairstyles attributed to African American women.

In African American culture hair is just not hair! When hair is discussed , it is discussed in its  Social, Political, Emotional , Psychological and Spiritual context.

 

 

By L. C. on 07/09/2009 9:49 pm
Beth Hereth
I worked at a military installation child care center once with a very diverse mix of children.  All I can say is how surprised I was at how silky and soft the hair of black/biracial children was.  I thought it would be course and wiry, but it wasn’t at all. I became friends w/a caregiver who was from Jamaica and she clued me in about the difficulties of managing "black" hair - that’s why she had a ton of hairscarfs and every day she wore a different one. 
By Beth Hereth on 07/09/2009 9:29 pm
L. C.

Beth Hereth

This is a woman who is not comfortable with her natural God given hair. A woman who chose to hide it under scarves. She had many choices. She could have braided her hair,worn extensions or worn a natural , She has poor self-esteem and a poor cultural self image. I believe also that Jamaicas colonization has left its imprint on her psyche.

By L. C. on 07/09/2009 10:00 pm
L. C.

Beth Hereth

I apologize to your friend if I misunderstood your post. I do not know her and the level of her self-esteem. I made a generalization based on my travels in Jamaica Montego Bay(Mobay) and what I witnessed. I was referring to the results of colonialization and the possible affects it could have had on her psyche and self esteem.

If she just likes wearing scarves and its convenient so be. However, if not I’ve shared my suggestions for possible alternatives.

I saw Black women wearing their  hair straighten  and white women tourists lined up to get their hair braided.

I was curious and asked. I was told by several Jamaican women that the lighter your complexion and the more european you look, the better your changes at economic and social success. While, in Jamaica  I saw whites and light complexioned Blacks in white color jobs.

By L. C. on 07/10/2009 5:19 am
Victoria J
LC…Some of the proudest, most outspoken self-actualized black folks I know are Jamaican women. I find your presumption about colonization’s ongoing impact antiquated and just plain wrong. Loving your yourself and managing your hair are two different things.  And it has nothing to do with self-esteem, more likely money, lack of easy availability of hair care products or even hair stylists.
By Victoria J on 07/10/2009 9:22 am
L. C.

Victoria J

You are correct. Some of the proudest, most outspoken self-actualized black folks are Jamaican women. I also agree that money for some could be a factor.

 Please read my second post to Beth Hereth. It’s an apology for making any assumptions. I’m not from  the "I Gotta Be Right School." I’m the first to say, I stand corrected.

 However, I stand by my statement that colonizations impact is ongoing just as  slavery’s impact is in America! There are certain behaviors still practiced. Practices that have nothing to do with self-esteem! Practices that are the result of conditioning. Conditioning that has affected the self-esteem of many. Conditioning that has left an ingrained imprint on the psyche. Sadly, there is a large population of women who bleach their skin.The goal to lighter skin. It is not because they have a medical condition. 

Antiquated No! … Reality Yes!

By L. C. on 07/10/2009 10:43 am
ann hodgman
Wait a minute, L. C. You don’t know Beth’s friend or the state of her self-esteem. You don’t know me, either, and you’ve misinterpreted my statement about “betraying our cultures.” (I agree with each item on your list. What decent person wouldn’t?) It’s not fair to assume you can speak for others—much less to lecture them about assumptions YOU have made. Besides, in your message to Beth, aren’t you yourself reacting as though her Jamaican friend is betraying her culture? Hair is more than hair for everyone, not just black women— and not just women. It’s linked to sexuality and power as well as the issues you mention. At the same time, it is, in fact, just hair, and I don’t think it’s worth anyone’s getting angry about. It’s not because I’m white that some people’s remarks here are bothering me; it’s because they’ve descended into name-calling and, yes, veered off-topic. (How do the rest of you get line breaks into these posts? Mine keep showing up as single paragraphs.)
By ann hodgman on 07/09/2009 10:24 pm
L. C.

No, You wait a minute ann hodgman

I wrote a post to Beth Hereth clarifying my reply to her post. I also apologized for any and all generalizations and assumptions that do not apply. My purpose at all times is to engage in constructive dialog.

Again, there is a cultural disconnect. Based on Colonizations and Enslavement’s IndoctrinationsI look further than what is presented on a superficial level. I explore the subject in a variety of contexts and levels. You continue to miss all the cultural and interesting nuances. There are no arguments and veering off topic! There are only passionate discussions. Everything that has and is being discussed is connected.

I press my enter key to create separate paragraphs.

I speak in my own voice and share my own opinions and perceptions. My voice is not an angry voice. I speak from a passionate voice of a woman who has lived a long life, has lots of experience and experiences behind her.

I’m not lecturing. I’m not participating in this discussion in a professional capacity. I’m participating as a private citizen minus my credentials. This is part of who I am. I like to think I’m educated, articulate, intelligent, generous, kind and loving among other adjectives.

There is a Sexual Politics of Hair. This is indeed part of the discussion we’ve been having. The sexual politics of hair is how we see ourselves and how we are perceived by others. It’s part of the male/female, male/male or female/female dynamic whatever ones preference. If you should decide to explore the sexuality of hair and how sexuality relates to power  I’d like to suggest the following book.

"The Power of Beauty", by Nancy Friday

By L. C. on 07/10/2009 6:13 am
starry Nite

I know we are talking about hair but and after reading all the comments it sounds like it reveals a lot more than hair styles.  

Should black woman be judged by the way they style their hair?  Is a hair style more than just a hair style?  If black women straighten their hair what does it mean? Should she straighten her hair?  Should she color it?  Cut it?  Braid it or wear extensions?  

Are we talking about hair styles or race ?  Is black hair and race the same subject? 

The actor Brad Pitt had a blog on how he learned to care for black hair. He said it was a challenge but he consulted several black hair stylists and black women in particular and now he is confident in dealing with his daughters hair.  As you recal Angelina Jolie and Brad Pit adopted a black child.

By starry Nite on 07/09/2009 11:29 pm
Victoria J

Starry Nite. Ms. Jolie and Mr. Pitt adopted an Ethiopian girl whom they named Zahara and they are using in part "Carol’s Daughters’ hair products which had been recommended to them.  Ethiopians owned the hair salon I go to in a major American City and according to them the large majority of Ethiopians don’t have kinky hair but fine straight curly hair.  And that wasn’t a defensive statement, just a calm discussion about the Pitts and there Ethiopian daughter. The owner, his wife and the majority of their help staff in the shop (not the hairstylists) are Ethiopian and they all have the hair he describes.  In many ways the fierce tension that has overtaken this discussion makes me wonder if we protest just a bit too much.

By Victoria J on 07/10/2009 10:49 am
starry Nite
I know that Sahara is Ethiopian and it is true that their hair varies from kinky to straight. I have friends who are Ethiopian.   Sahara hair appears to not be more on the kinky side.  Carol daughters products are sold on the shopping channels for use on all hair types.
By starry Nite on 07/10/2009 11:29 pm
Victoria J
It’s Zahara…not Sahara!
By Victoria J on 07/11/2009 8:38 am
starry Nite
Sorry about the typo.   Zahara
By starry Nite on 07/14/2009 10:30 pm
Maizie James

It’s about choice.  My hair texture was never really coarse of very kinky.  But, when I was 14, I begged my mother to press my hair.  And, to my joy I was thrilled … I wanted to ‘fit in’.  I had a lite press for many years, and I never relaxed my hair until I was in my 30’s. [Relaxing my hair over time ruined it.  I eventually cut it ten years later, when I went all  ‘natural’. 

Since then, I simply wash, condition, then roll my hair.  And, I cant’ imagine ever pressing or relaxing my hair in the future, and prefer my ‘natural’ style.

By Maizie James on 07/10/2009 12:28 am
Ashley Cody
eek!  when I went to cosmetology school 4 yrs ago my one teachers biggest pet peeve was the black girls calling relaxers "perms"  a perm curls the hair, a relaxer straightens it and they are 2 totally different chemicals.  I always kind of wondered what the point of having the white girls learn relaxers was because if you’re white the minute you leave beauty school is the minute you can forget absolutely everything you ever heard about relaxers because no black woman in her right mind would let a white woman relax her hair.
By Ashley Cody on 07/10/2009 4:35 am