Q & A | 07/08/2009 12:00 am
A Conversation With Keneisha Sinclair: A White Woman Learns About Black Hairstyling

Editor’s note: Ann Hodgman is part of the wowOwow Executive Intern Program, where experienced editors learn a new skill from our younger, Internet-savvy staff.
Over the years, I’ve watched my friend Keneisha Sinclair’s hair go through endless transformations. One month, it would be relaxed. A couple of months later, it would be braided, with extensions. A couple of months after that, it would be a cloud of ringlets. Since my own white-person’s short hair has basically had the same blah, Mommy-ish layering for 30 years, I love watching Keneisha’s hair morph into a completely new look every time I see her.
Keneisha’s younger than most wowOwow.com readers — she just graduated from Yale — but she’s not too young to have plenty of strongly voiced opinions about female self-image, both black and white, in our culture. (In fact, her college thesis was about female body image.) So I figured she would be the perfect person to ask about black hair.
And I had a lot of questions. Transcribed, our conversation ran to 48 pages! Here are some of the (ahem) highlights.
| It sounds as though black girls' hair issues are like white girls' weight issues. |
ANN HODGMAN: When I was a little girl at sleepaway camp, the main concern of the black girls at camp was whether their hair was straight — not how it was styled. Do you feel as though "straightness" was the guiding aesthetic for black hair for a long time?
KENEISHA SINCLAIR: Yes, I think so. Especially for little girls, there’s this idea that their hair should be straight and long. But that’s just not the way black hair usually is.
ANN: When did you first start thinking about your hair?
KENEISHA: I didn’t really think about it for a long time because my mom always did my hair for me, and she was really good at it. So I don’t think I thought about it until I wanted to get it relaxed — maybe third grade.
ANN: You had your hair relaxed in third grade?
KENEISHA: Fourth grade. The rule was, I was supposed to wait until I was 13 — but I couldn’t wait anymore. Finally my mom said OK.
ANN: Why couldn’t you wait? Because white girls had straight hair?
KENEISHA: No — I wasn’t even thinking about it in those ways yet. Having your hair relaxed was what grownup black girls did, and when you’re ten you want to be very, very grown up. (That was the year that I put all my Barbies under my bed.) I wasn’t thinking about it like, "Oh, this is a beauty ideal because of white culture." Not until I was a little bit older did I start thinking about it in that way.
ANN: What’s involved in getting hair relaxed? "My people" don’t know anything about this.
KENEISHA: It’s a really, really frightening process, which is why my mom wanted me to wait. But parents even do this to kindergartners, which is awful.
ANN: Oh, my God. Do they still use lye, like in The Autobiography of Malcolm X?
KENEISHA: No, a relaxer is a little bit more humane at this point, but it’s still really frightening. You get this white creamy stuff, which is the relaxer, put on your head. It’s chemicals — some kind of terrible, low-PH chemicals. You sit there for as long as you can handle it, and then it gets washed out.
ANN: You mean you sit until you reach a certain level of pain?























154 Reader Comments (so far…) Sign In or Register to comment
Sorry, but relaxers don’t have a "colored only" sign on them. These reverse perms were originally created for Jewish women in 1920’s to straighten their kinky curly hair…and that’s why they were called "reverse perms" as least that is what my Jewish females friends told me their mothers told them. Thus that may be why some black folks call them perms today. My daughter gets a perm from a white guy, who does an extraordinary job…don’t think his ability to read the instructions hampered by his gene pool
"I’m going to go out on a limb here and say that the following: “We used to have silly girls like you in school. We used to call them know it alls. They were usually a little chunky, and to cover up their insecurities, they became verbal bullies” …qualifies as not contributing to the discussion. It doesn’t bother me because I’m white and don’t know how to pick up on cultural differences. It bothers me because it’s not related to what we’re talking about, and it’s mean."
Ann, What does this mean? "It doesn’t bother me because I’m white and don’t know how to pick up on cultural differences." Are you presuming I attended an all black school? I didn’t! My statement about silly girls was color neutral. I was talking about attitude which is also color neutral. "know it alls" is color neutral and they were usually a little chunky (color neutral) and to cover up their securities, they became verbal bullies" (again color neutral). So what does the fact that you are white have to do with anything I said? And what the hey does it have to do with cultural differences?
Your presumptions are working overtime and they are all off track. Perhaps you ought to spend less time being the "too mean" police and work on curbing your racial presumptions. And aren’t you the "I’m White (your term) talking about "white girls and their weight issues? So perhaps you do know something about cultural differences? I think the limb just cracked!
Victoria J
I beg to differ with you. I have not felt like a bystander being pounded into the ground by Belinda Joy. I believe I’ve been a positive contributor to this valuable, informative and interesting discussion. I’ve attempted to present facts and provided websites and books for further exploration.
To the contrary. Belinda joy has been an asset to this discussion. Her posts have been some of the most factual, interesting and enlightening. She’s intelligent and articulate. This is not to say others are not.
No one, absolutely no one bullies LC !
Ann,
This experiment of yours was well intentioned, but undertaken in a rather amateurish way. Questioning is fine, my mother says if you don’t know ask,but it would seem you approached the subject as though black hair was "one size fits all". Your subject gave you her experience, but for me it made no sense to me because that was the way people talked about black perms 30 years ago. I am sorry but nobody I know and I repeat that I know has those experiences today. If you are going to rap our verbal knuckles…I have read Belinda Joy call several of us posters "ignorant" perhaps that does not meet your "name calling" criteria, but last time I look it fits the description. If you are going to be an arbiter, then you ought go with fair and equal treatment, my dear …it works!
Education, learning and cultivation is an ongoing process. Learning can be formal and informal. There is something new to be learned everyday. It’s important to keep ones eyes and ears open. I may not agree with everything being said. However, I respect and value every-ones opinion.
I learned several years ago that we all want to be heard. We want to be understood.
By the way Ann, what does this mean? "It sounds as though black girls’ hair issues are like white girls’ weight issues."
Isn’t that statement a bit presumptive on its face? Which black girls and which white girls? Or we all just one big happy bunch?
Just WOW! A few things really jumped out at me on this one:
1. To Ann Hodgman who said something along the lines of "my people know nothing about relaxers…" Check your facts and your history. Relaxers were not invented by or for black people, they were in fact created by "ethnic" whites, like Jews. African Americans simply perfected them, and you might be surprised how many Greek, Jewish, Italian and other "ethnic" people who consider themselves white relax their hair. They simply use a lesser strength for a shorter period of time, but believe you me, they do relax their hair.
2. To all of the people who say that "hair is just hair…" In a perfect world, it would be; but our world is far, far from perfect, hence to many people and in many ways, it is so much more than "just hair." Sadly, most white Americans do not know anything about black history and social culture. Do some research on "quadroons and octoroons" and "house slaves vs. field slaves" and it might enlighten you a bit. Basically, since The Middle Passage, black people in America have been told we are ignorant and compared to savages and primates, etc. It was ingrained in our heads that "white is right and lighter is better." There was a premium placed on people with lighter complexions and straighter hair and to many people, the premium is still there, it just isn’t politically correct to say it. The term "good hair" is still used in this country by people of color (Latinos use it too) and sadly, there are still products for sale not only to straighten our hair, but also to "lighten and brighten" complexions.
3. To the white woman who said that it as a waste of time to learn relaxing hair in cosmetology because white women wouldn’t need it since no black woman would ever let them relax her hair - see #1 again and then check your racism at the door. If you showed expertise at your craft, people of all races would utilize your skills as a hairdresser. See #4 for more information on that…
4. This story really is not about "black hair," rather it should be titled something about "Styling Afro-Textured Hair." ALL black hair is not "nappy," or coarse or even curly. Just as black people come in all shades of skin color, we also have all types of hair textures, often more than one texture on one head. This also happens among white people, but not as frequently. As a black woman with a hair texture more often attributed to white or Latina women, I’ve had my hair cut and styled by people of varying ethnicities. If I were to relax my hair, I’d care not the color of the person doing it; rather I’d care about their qualifications.
5. To the white woman who complained about black women calling relaxers "perms" - Originally, it was called a "permanent relaxer" since the texture of the hair is changed permanently, hence the shortened name "perm."
6. Straightening or perming afro-textured hair can in some cases be an act of self-hatred. If the person is straightening just because they like the idea of it or want a change, then it isn’t. But for many black people (not just women), the idea of anyone seeing their hair in its natural state is horrific. They equate straightened hair with a higher social class and being more refined, much in the same way that some view lighter skin. It used to be a widely held belief in the upper echelon of black society that a man should never marry a woman whose skin was darker than his and even today, you have black people who pursue relationships with people of other races in order to have children with lighter skin and straighter hair. If I marry a white, Asian or Hispanic man because we have common interests and goals and enjoy each other’s company, etc - that is great. But if I marry or make children with him only because of the color of his skin or the texture of his hair, then there is a serious problem. The same can be said about straightening our hair.
7. Corporate America still does not embrace afro-centric ideals of beauty on the whole. Just about a year ago, a beauty editor from Glamour magazine did a presentation about what is and is not acceptable in the corporate world and basically told black women no braids, locs (dreads is actually a pejorative term in many circles), no afros, twists, etc. In essence, she told black woman that unless they have naturally straighter or silkier hair, their natural hair texture is unacceptable in a professional environment.
8. There were several comments about how "difficult" it is to manage afro-textured" hair. It isn’t difficult if you work with your hair’s natural texture. Much in the same way that people with bone straight and limp hair struggle to make waves and curls only to have them dissipate almost immediately, people with afro-textured hair who try to make it straight and bouncy and silky will find it difficult. However, if they embrace the curls, kinks, coils and waves they were given and wear styles more suited to their natural texture, they might find it much less difficult.
9. To the person who said something along the lines of “most black hair doesn’t grow long” – That statement should be qualified. Take note that most young black girls have very long ponytails and braids until they get their hair relaxed and it begins to break off from the repeated damage. Notice the people with afro-textured hair who do not relax their hair often have longer hair (you might not notice it because the curl pattern is often so tight that the hair literally “shrinks” up and the actual length can only be seen when the hair is elongated by being wet or stretched with their hand). Notice people with braids and locs past their waist.
I must say that I am glad to see this topic being discussed. As others have said, we need to conversations about race and culture in the hope that we will narrow the gap between American whites and blacks. I’d love to see the topic of euro-centric beauty ideals (not just hair) and its effect on black people discussed as well.
Mizz Thang
Thank you, for your post! … It was informative and interesting. Your post will educate many unknowledgeable posters.
In the African American community there’s the "Black Bourgeoisie." Included in this group are formal educated, light to medium complexioned blacks. Skilled and professionals of a specific socio-economic class. Persons who originally imitated what they perceived to be "White Society." Historically, inorder to qualify for this group a person had to pass "The Brown PaperbagTest." Inorder to belong "Black Bourgeosie" you could not be darker than a brown paperbag. Dark complexioned blacks were admitted but they had to be wealthy and were usually a known celebrity.
I appreciated your section on "Corporate Americas Ethnic Biases."
African Americans can also grow very long hair by wearing dreadlocks.
You are one hundred correct Mizz Thang. Miss, Mr. or Mrs. is not reserved for whites only! … In the old South African American adults addressed whites in this manner while whites addressed blacks by their first names. My family is from the South. I was born and raised in New York City. I was taught as a child to respect my elders. I addressed adults as Mr.,Mrs. or Miss followed by their surname. My mothers close friends became Miss Agnes, Mr. John or Aunt Agnes and Mr John. You are one hundred percent correct!
I cannot count the number of times I’ve had business and medical appointments and the receptionist addressed me by my first name. My standard practice is to sit there until I’m addressed correctly by title and surname. If the person appears confused I proceed to give them a lesson in office etiquette. I’m from "The Old School."