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Q & A | 07/08/2009 12:00 am

A Conversation With Keneisha Sinclair: A White Woman Learns About Black Hairstyling

wOw’s Executive Intern Ann Hodgman addresses with her friend the realities of race and hair.
By Ann Hodgman

Editor’s note: Ann Hodgman is part of the wowOwow Executive Intern Program, where experienced editors learn a new skill from our younger, Internet-savvy staff.

Over the years, I’ve watched my friend Keneisha Sinclair’s hair go through endless transformations. One month, it would be relaxed. A couple of months later, it would be braided, with extensions. A couple of months after that, it would be a cloud of ringlets. Since my own white-person’s short hair has basically had the same blah, Mommy-ish layering for 30 years, I love watching Keneisha’s hair morph into a completely new look every time I see her.

Keneisha’s younger than most wowOwow.com readers — she just graduated from Yale — but she’s not too young to have plenty of strongly voiced opinions about female self-image, both black and white, in our culture. (In fact, her college thesis was about female body image.) So I figured she would be the perfect person to ask about black hair.

And I had a lot of questions. Transcribed, our conversation ran to 48 pages! Here are some of the (ahem) highlights.

It sounds as though black girls' hair issues are like white girls' weight issues.

ANN HODGMAN: When I was a little girl at sleepaway camp, the main concern of the black girls at camp was whether their hair was straight — not how it was styled. Do you feel as though "straightness" was the guiding aesthetic for black hair for a long time?

KENEISHA SINCLAIR: Yes, I think so. Especially for little girls, there’s this idea that their hair should be straight and long. But that’s just not the way black hair usually is.

ANN: When did you first start thinking about your hair?

KENEISHA: I didn’t really think about it for a long time because my mom always did my hair for me, and she was really good at it. So I don’t think I thought about it until I wanted to get it relaxed — maybe third grade.

ANN: You had your hair relaxed in third grade?

KENEISHA: Fourth grade. The rule was, I was supposed to wait until I was 13 — but I couldn’t wait anymore. Finally my mom said OK.

ANN: Why couldn’t you wait? Because white girls had straight hair? 

KENEISHA: No — I wasn’t even thinking about it in those ways yet. Having your hair relaxed was what grownup black girls did, and when you’re ten you want to be very, very grown up. (That was the year that I put all my Barbies under my bed.) I wasn’t thinking about it like, "Oh, this is a beauty ideal because of white culture." Not until I was a little bit older did I start thinking about it in that way.

ANN: What’s involved in getting hair relaxed? "My people" don’t know anything about this.

KENEISHA: It’s a really, really frightening process, which is why my mom wanted me to wait. But parents even do this to kindergartners, which is awful.

ANN: Oh, my God. Do they still use lye, like in The Autobiography of Malcolm X?

KENEISHA: No, a relaxer is a little bit more humane at this point, but it’s still really frightening. You get this white creamy stuff, which is the relaxer, put on your head. It’s chemicals — some kind of terrible, low-PH chemicals. You sit there for as long as you can handle it, and then it gets washed out.

ANN: You mean you sit until you reach a certain level of pain?

154 Reader Comments (so far…) Sign In or Register to comment

L. C.
Correction My mothers closest friends became Miss Agnes, Mr. John or Aunt Agnes and Uncle John.
By L. C. on 07/12/2009 4:30 pm
starry Nite

I know that it is a southern thing to address their "elders" by a generic title for example "Miss Lucy".  The problem occurs when people are addressed this way by someone who is not their elder but seems to think they are.   Young women who refer to other women are approciately the same age as "Miss Lucy" could result in an insult.

By starry Nite on 07/10/2009 11:22 pm
Lisa Thompson
A R, i agree completely, but you are missing one important point- it’s not just the advertising we need to rebel against; it’s society’s viewpoints, and how those we work/play/live among view us as Black women. As a biracial woman with crazy, tangly, thick hair down the middle of my back, I have given up my 45 year fight for straight hair- the cost in dollars and time is too great.  Since leaving my hair completely natural (read "wild & untameable"!), it may look like "I don’t care" about my appearance & be judged accordingly, but Truth is, I value the time I have here on earth much too much to waste it sitting in a salon for one more hour. Speaking for all of us with natural hair, I accept me, as I am; it would be nice if others did too, without judgment.
By Lisa Thompson on 07/11/2009 12:38 pm
Victoria J

Lisa Thompson,

The reality is that on any given day, many a woman will walk passed you and see you and your hair as beautiful and wish they had your hair. Perhaps they won’t want it forever, but for a while. It may be the way we are built. We like a lot of looks or at least I do. Authentic women are always beautiful and it has less to do with natural or processed hair as much as it has to do with the woman who has chosen for herself and is comfortable with what she has chosen.

By Victoria J on 07/11/2009 2:17 pm
Jennifer Michaels
I apologize for the passion turned venom-looking words typed in this thread. There are still oddities where I am in the country that causes one to raise their eyebrows when they occur, but this article was about hair I guess I just dumped random thoughts on racial issues under keneisha’s interview and that was rude. My ‘pologies.
By Jennifer Michaels on 07/12/2009 7:42 am
Linda Bradshaw
One last thought as I read through these posts… they have illluminated for me just why I’ve been so fearful in asking for help with my daughter’s hair from the various African-American women around me.   I adore my daughter, I love her hair, I want more than anything for her to be a self-loving proud black woman…. but if my genuine questions are regarded as Racist, or Ignorant, or Stupid, or Whatever,  how am I to do right by her???   It certainly seems as though a white woman asking these questions  — even if it is to benefit her black child —- is damned in either case,  and it breaks my heart.
By Linda Bradshaw on 07/13/2009 7:42 am
Mizz Thang

Linda,

No it is not racist for a white woman to ask questions about a black woman’s hair and as a black woman, I am truly sorry that you feel that way. It is all in how and why you ask. As the white mother of a biracial child with textured hair, you have a vested interest in knowing not only how to style your daughter’s hair, but what products and ingredients are actually good for her hair. As a black woman of mixed heritage, I can attest to the difficulty of learning to care for and love your own hair when your mother doesn’t know how to teach you. You’d be surprised to find that most products marketed toward afro-textured hair are terrible for the health of the hair. 

I’m assuming that your daughter’s father is black, if that is the case, is there an aunt or grandmother or cousin who can teach and help you? If not, ask a friend or coworker with hair similar to your daughter’s for advice. Otherwise,check for support and social groups in your area for biracial, interracial and multiracial families or even a "mocha moms" group. A great website for curly hair is www.naturallycurly.com and you will find plenty of helpful peolpe of all races and ethnicities there for support as well. 

If I may, a few helpful tips for caring for your daughter’s hair:

- afro-textured hair tends to be dryer (but not always). If this si the case, use only sulfate-free shampoos on her hair. Skip anything with sodium laurel sulfate or sodium laureth sulfate. 

- avoid products made with lanolin, petrolatum or mineral oil. These ingredients can coat the hair and impede it from absorbing the moisture it needs.

- use only products with water soluble silicones as silicone can coat the shaft and while at first, hair will appear doft and silky, later it may become dried out.

Good luck!

By Mizz Thang on 07/13/2009 9:55 am
L. C.

Linda Bradshaw

Kill the stereotypes and assumptions! … If you approach someone with a pure heart and pure intent you will receive a positive response. People genuinely like sharing information about themselves.

Years ago I had one of the strangest experiences. I was at a function hosted by "Operation Crossroads Africa." There was this little Black boy. He was actually standing in-front of me looking at me. I smiled and spoke to him. His adopted parents both white ran over looked at me as though I was trying to kidnap him and snatched him away. The child continued to stare at me.

I pitied the couple and felt sad for the child. The little boy had obviously met someone who mirrored his reflection. He was attempting to make a connection. This woman’s insecurity I thought will cause this child to suffer. Instead of trying to shut him away from his culture she should have been building positive relationships with people of color and Blacks. If nothing-else learning about his culture instead of trying to enclose him in a tower of ivory.

 

By L. C. on 07/14/2009 8:13 am
Linda Bradshaw
Thank you for the info!   I am actually the white adoptive mother of a black child, so even more in need of guidance.   My African-American coworkers have been gracious in answering my questions and providing guidance, but I’m finding that everyone has a different opinion.   Tori’s hair is very thick and nappy… many of the products marketed for black hair have not been good for hers, so I really appreciate your specific comments about the ingredients.   I’m a low-maintenance gal with my own hair, so am always looking for the best (healthy, quick and low-maintenance) way to manage hers.  Thanks again!!
By Linda Bradshaw on 07/13/2009 10:04 am
ann hodgman
Over the weekend, my mother-in-law Carol wrote me after reading all these posts. (Sorry I still can’t figure out how to get paragraphing—something about my having written the original piece.) As she shows, hair makes everyone crazy:/// In case you ever write more about hair, here a few observations from an old lady. Concern over hair never stops. I know of ladies who make sure to have their hair done before surgery, who go to the beauty shop even if they rarely or never leave their apartments for anything else. One of my friends, who is 90, has her hair done twice a week ( she looks great!). We can spend quite a lot of time discussing hair in the pub, if it is a table of ladies - “You still drive - oh, you’re lucky that you can still go to your old hair dresser.” “How far do you have to drive to get your hair done - way out there?” /// From my own memories - My mother made me get permanents in high school, on those torture machines that had rollers on wires attached to a huge helmet-like structure that you sat under and cooked. I remember being asked out on a new date, realizing it was the same day as I was having a permanent and thinking - should I say “no”, my hair looks so awful right after a permanent? I remember in the 50s, when rollers and teasing came into vogue. I can picture coming home into the kitchen after a new style do, and David, age 2 or 3, started crying and saying “Mommy, your hair is too high - get it down!” /// I think I went to the beauty shop fairly regularly, as did most of my friends, for many years. We always timed hair dos around parties, trips, etc., having to change standing appointments when necessary. Hair dos got preserved by hair spray. One of my favorite comments from Maggie, when she was quite little, after patting my head, was “Grammie, your hair is so crisp!” /// My hair turned gray when I was 50, and I never considered dying it - figuring out the right time for cuts, permanents, etc., seemed enough to bother with, aside from the expense. Since moving here, far away from my longtime hair dresser, I have discovered I can wash and curl my hair pretty well, after having a mild permanent every 2 and 1/2 half or 3 months, with a haircut in between. When I get really old I figure I will just have it cut very short and leave it straight, or get a wig - I’ve seen some here. Obviously, I have thought about it, as do all my friends. I believe concern over hair must be the last thing to go!
By ann hodgman on 07/13/2009 10:23 am
Mary Catherine Headley
This has been an interesting topic, not just because it is informative, but because people are asking questions to learn. I’m fortunate in that I have customers of different races, religions, etc. and if I have a question, I ask them (and the reverse is true). After reading the article (wishing I could read all 48 pages, lol!) and the responses, I feel like I do when I’m asking a question of one of my customers—-comfortable. 
By Mary Catherine Headley on 07/14/2009 4:13 pm
Wendy R

This is a great blog, it gets people talking and thinking. I have a friend who just adopted an African American little girl, my first concern was that she get some education on how to take care of her hair. I have nieces & nephews that are bi-racial and know their hair needs different care than my wavey, straight ironed hair that I wash every day. Not because her hair needs to look a certain way, but because I worry it may be damaged or have permanent bald spots if not cared for properly. I offered to set her up with some of my African American friends or family members to get a little education and advice when she needs it, the baby is a new born right now.

I do agree with the grass is greener term, my hair is very thick and naturally wavey, I spend tons of time straight ironing it, my friend has thin straight hair and wishes she had my hair. When my hair was to my waist it was straight, then I cut it to the middle of my back and it got very wavey and frizzy at times. The hair dresser said the weight of my hair when it was longer kept it straight.

By Wendy R on 07/14/2009 5:33 pm
starry Nite

Ann Hodgman,  Thanks for the article.  It gave people a chance to vent and ask questions that they were afraid to ask.  Hopefully the exchange of ideas was helpful. 

Everyone is different and hair texture varies.  People have different experiences with their hair.

 But what is really important is how people feel about themselves.  Thanks again.

By starry Nite on 07/14/2009 10:54 pm
ann hodgman
It’s been a great exchange so far! Don’t you feel as if we should figure out what the next “difficult” topic is, and start working on it right here? Among all of us I think we can handle anything.
By ann hodgman on 07/15/2009 10:33 am
Sarah Thompson

Relaxers truly don’t have to hurt.  My mother put a "kiddie perm" in my hair when I was quite young and it was not a terrible experience.  If you scratch your scalp before putting a relaxer on, then of course it will burn.  That is something you just learn as a child and when you get tired of the burning, you stop.  I don’t really find this Q&A representative of all black women’s hair.  Perhaps I am different, but when I put on a relaxer there is no fear in swimming.  Just put a really good deep conditioner on it.  MY fear of getting my hair wet is because once it becomes damp, there is no going back.  I must restyle my hair all over again.  There is no dry it up, brush and then go. 

This is a very diverse topic as black hair is diverse.  But good chat.

By Sarah Thompson on 07/15/2009 1:03 pm