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Style | 09/08/2009 12:00 am

The Smartest Skin-Care Ingredients for Beautiful Skin

These over-the-counter products contain all-star ingredients scientifically found to nourish and protect your lovely top layer.

Photo Essay

For the last few decades, many of us have been buying beauty products based on brands, scents and advice from friends and family. While there’s nothing wrong with finding comfort in using the same skin-care products over time, the truth is it’s important to shop by ingredient, not by the brand your mother used or that you used in your 20s. Your skin needs something different now, confirms Ranella Hirsch, a Boston dermatologist, whose work on several clinical trials for skin-care products makes her very ingredient savvy. “There’s nothing smarter than vitamin A, whether in drug form or in over-the-counter retinol, for any women who wants to reduce fine lines and even out her skin tone,” says Dr. Hirsch, who also likes alpha-hydroxy acids, skin-fortifying peptides and antioxidants. “They supplement what the skin needs when its cell-turnover and collagen-making process slows down.” These all-star ingredients and more are used in dozens of beauty brands. Why? Because top cosmetic chemists, dermatologists and even a handful of clinical studies agree they work.  Click through this photo essay to see the best elements for your skin and which products contain the goods.

Editor’s note: Melisse Gelula has visited more than 100 spas on five continents. She is the former editor-in-chief of SpaFinderLifestyle.com, spa beauty editor at Luxury SpaFinder magazine and travel editor at Fodor’s guidebooks. As a travel, spa and beauty expert, Melisse has appeared on the Travel Channel and E! News, and has contributed to such magazines as Departures, Health and Organic Spa, and has been quoted widely in The New York Times, TravelandLeisure.com, CNN.com and more. She’s currently launching a well-being blog with another top spa writer called WellandGoodNYC.com. Wish to contact Melisse? E-mail her at melisse@wellandgoodnyc.com.

15 Reader Comments (so far…) Sign In or Register to comment

kermie b

IMO there is too much emphasis on piling on more and more products and lotions with the newest ingredients and the newest claims, in lieu of the basics—cleaning one’s face well.

I have owned what I consider an investment item, a ($195) Clarisonic Skin Brush, for many years. At the risk of sounding like one of these ads, the brush really works and cleans my face more effectively than a washcloth. The company improved it recently with a really gentle, sensitive skin, brushhead, perfect for me (the brushheads can be replaced and interchanged). Clarisonic promises smaller looking pores and reduction of fine lines, and can be used in the shower—a real plus. My dermatologist, who I go to for skin cancer checkups, sees a positive difference in how my skin looks because of this brush. I definitely see the difference.

I have always had oily/combination skin (still do at 53), which I believe, although a bane in my youth, accounts for less wrinkles as I have aged. I need very little lotion on my face, and the one I adore is from Aubrey Organics—Rosa Mosqueta Hand and Body Lotion. I don’t need separate (read: expensive) lotions for my face and body. Aubrey is excellent quality, feels wonderful, is not tested on animals and has no parabens or other scary ingredients.

I’d be interested in hearing what others have to say about this.

By kermie b on 09/08/2009 4:20 am
Dora M

Hi, Kermie, I couldn’t agree more about the Clarisonic brush, I definitely see a difference in my skin when I use it, I think it really helps do slough off dead cells on the face and let whatever cream, be it expensive or not, do their work better.  I recently had my old brush break down and was too sick to go out and get a new one for a while (chemo) and now that I finally got the new improved version I’m so happy.  I’m 52, have had oily/combo skin all my life and the added advantage of carrying extra weight (ha! how’s that for rationalization?) so even tho I’m currently bald and chubby at least I have great skin!  :) 

By Dora M on 09/08/2009 9:08 pm
kermie b

Dora—I am so sorry you had to deal with Chemo, but you seem upbeat about it. I have put on weight since I turned 50, also, so we are in that club together. I’m working on that, but it is tougher to lose weight at our age than when we were in our 20s.

I have an older sister who smoked her whole life, slept in her makeup, always had dry skin (and constantly made jokes about my oily skin)—but now that we are in our 50s, she (shockers!) said she looks 10 years older than me (she is actually four years older). I don’t care about that and told her so; I care about good health and preventing skin cancer, which we have both had. I never wear foundation, I wear loose mineral powder with SPF 15, and never use products with ingredients I don’t know, or products that have been tested on animals. I have never smoked—I can tell smoker’s skin at a glance—it ages women.

Living in NYC, I often come home to look in the mirror and see little black specks of soot on my face—that is why the Clarisonic brush is so great. I cannot afford to move out of the city just yet, so it is important to me to clean my face as best I can.

Dora, I hope your health is better every day.

By kermie b on 09/09/2009 10:19 am
Dora M

Hi, Kermie!  Ooh, yeah, NY soot on my face would make me crazy too, but I have to confess that I am a world class exfoliator (I won’t elaborate on my practically loofahing off my nipples once, haha!) so I love that Clarisonic :)  

And thank you so much for your good wishes, it’s been a long six and a half months for me but treatment is over and now I get to work on getting stronger and stronger every day.

By Dora M on 09/09/2009 2:24 pm
Susan Crawford

I agree, Kermie. The key element to having a good complexion and skin-tone is the combination of effective and gentle cleansing and regular visits to a dermatologist.

When I was in my teens, and just starting to wear makeup, my grandmother, who passed away at 80+ with barely a frown-line, told me her cardinal rule: never go to bed with make-up on your face. "If you come in at 3:00am, dead tired, still take five minutes to remove every trace of makeup, and then apply moisture. And start every day the same way, no matter what else you do." Good advice!

Like you, I realize not that I was blessed with a mostly oily skin, and that helped reduce the risk of wrinkles. (I hated it as a young woman, though, since my skin got "shiny" and make-up seemed to slide off in minutes!) And after a few years of trying to get one of those St. Tropez tans, this Scots/Itish/Anglo paleface finally gave up the struggle and started staying out of the UVs. So that helped, too.

I use a VIC washcloth on my face every morning and every evening - it has just enough texture to give a little exfoliation, without irritating my skin. I use a lot of Kiss My Face products, which I find soothing and mild as well as exceptionally rich without being overly oily. Once a week, I go all out and do a home facial that includes some steaming, followed by a very rich moisture cream. After I remove the moisture with a very warm face cloth, I do a Joan Crawford (no relative): I splash my face with ice-cold water. I feel revved up and energized. And people tell me I have good skin, so between genetics and basic care, I guess I feel good about my complexion. Do I have wrinkles? Well, sure. I earned them, and I’m not a fanatic about having them. I will never rule out Botox or some other injectable, but at this point, I don’t think of it as a priority.

One product I would love to see re-introduced: Revlon’s Moondrops. That was the first moisturizer I used, and it was wonderful. It just soaked in leaving no greasy residue, smelled great and made even temperamental adolescent skin look and feel great. Then it disappeared, and I still miss it.

By Susan Crawford on 09/08/2009 7:55 am
katharine l'Heureux
Thank you for including argan oil and Kahina - Giving Beauty on your list.  At Giving Beauty we share your belief in the need for simple skin care based on excellent ingredients that work.  That is why all the products in our Kahina line are made from pure argan oil combined with other active natural ingredients, including many others from your list.  We appreciate your common sense advice on approaching skin care.
By katharine l'Heureux on 09/08/2009 8:43 am
Maggie W

A few years back, I heard a dermatologist on a talk show praise alpha-hydroxy products.  I ditched my old products and invested in AH moisturizers and night creme.  It has definitely made a difference in reducing fine lines and making my skin more supple.

By Maggie W on 09/08/2009 10:40 am
Lizzie R.
I use prescription Retin A every night and in the morning I use an alpha hydroxy acid product.  I’ve used this regimen for 24 yrs. and for somebody 80 I have very good skin.
By Lizzie R. on 09/08/2009 7:59 pm
Sam Mirando
My mother taught me never to wash my face with anything except water and, at most, I wash my face with soap once a month maximum.  I don’t wear a speck of make-up but use an inexpensive moisturizer very sparingly in the winter.  My skin is in good shape but who knows whether I have a good regimen or good genes?  What I do know is that I don’t support any commercial cosmetic companies by buying their overpriced and overhyped products.
By Sam Mirando on 09/09/2009 7:31 am
Messy ONE

Susan, if you’re looking for a good lightweight moisturizer, try Neutrogena’s oil-free version for sensitive skin. It’s lightweight and disappears instantly. I’ve been using it for years.

Actually, Neutrogena is about the only line of skin-care products I can use. Thankfully the quality is wonderful, and they have oil-free, fragrance-free, plant-free products. I use the alpha-hydroxy serum at night to slough off dead cells, then use Clinique Men’s Face Scrub (the women’s version seems very greasy to me) about three times a week. At 46, my skin looks better than a lot of women ten years younger than I am.

I don’t even own foundation, but I’d die without a little concealer and mascara. Blast these blonde eyelashes! 

I do have one complaint. So many products are crammed full of plants these days that I cannot use them. Chamomile is a member of the daisy family - if it touches my skin I have to take Benadryl for 48 hours until the reaction dies down. Aloe makes me itch furiously, and washing it off doesn’t help (I’m not alone in this. Apparently it’s a pretty common reaction).  

I’d like to see some labeling changes. Many products that are labelled "hypoallergenic" are not. ANY product that contains even the tiniest speck of plant matter CANNOT by any definition be considered "hypoallergenic". "Unscented" and "fragrance-free" are NOT the same thing, either. Masking fragrances can be just as much of a problem as perfume in a skin-care product.

There was a time when I could use several different lines of skin-care products, now I can’t even go near most of them. Even Clinique and Prescriptives, both of which were renowned for being safe for allergies and sensitive skin, have changed to the point where I can only use one or two of their products.  

By Messy ONE on 09/09/2009 8:48 am
cathline bridges

Actually Chamomile is in the ragweed family.  If you have a ragweed allergy, there is a slight chance you will have a reaction to chamomile. I get this reaction.

I use AHAs, the Wexler products, Perricone vitamin C, and Retin-A.  I’ve had folks tell me that they thought was almost 30 (about 15 yrs younger than I really am).  Looking youthful works great in my profession!

 And I didn’t start a skin care routine until about 6 or 7 yrs ago.(other than the retin-a which I’ve been using for decades). 

 Oh, and they should have mentioned Creme de la Mer.  Great for scars!

By cathline bridges on 09/09/2009 5:59 pm
Messy ONE
Ragweed, daisies…..they make me sneeze. Violently. Not a good thing for a Master Gardener, but that’s the way it works sometimes. Sigh. I don’t get the appeal of the chamomile, though. It tastes sort of like dirt in tea form. It’s not a terribly pretty plant. Also, and this is from a botanist friend of mine - chamomile is only soothing if you INGEST it. On your skin? Forget it. I think I’ll stick with the non-plant stuff. 
By Messy ONE on 09/10/2009 4:48 pm
mia jade
When I was a teen I went to a dermatologist for my acne, and detested my oily skin. She told me that one day I would appreciate it because I would age much slower than my drier skinned peers, and she was right. I’m nearing 40 and my skin is as slick as the day I hit puberty, but with only a few nearly visible fine lines. I remember when I was around 21 I started seeing ads for Alpha-Hydrox, and I went out and bought it immediately. It was in a gel version for oily skin, and I mixed it with a sunscreen. I’ve tried my best to care for my skin over the years, but as anyone with kids, job and other things knows its hard to find time for yourself. But I still have people tell me I look up to 10 years younger than what I am, so I obviously did something right. What I’m fighting now are the brown splotches I have from sun exposure and I’m using a Roc formula. So far nothing (2 weeks) but I guess I should give it time. Mayhap its a good idea to get back to a derm and see about getting an Rx for some Retina.
By mia jade on 09/11/2009 8:19 am
carey candrian
Thanks for the post and comments, some interesting discussions for sure. I am 27 and my skin seems to react very nicely to plant/food based intgredients. I use a cleanser with geranium, adzuki bean and cranberry and a cream that is rose based which tones down my redish complextion. Growing up I used non-plant/food based products and developed a horrible and almost permanent rash on the right side of my face. And when I started using different products, it disappeared through its mini exfoliation and it has even removed the red marks. Guess it is whatever works for you though but I find my body does better when I feed it these products. And for someone very active, they feel so much lighter than most products when outside or sweating and I feel like I am still getting my vitamin D too without having a mask on. My sister uses argan oil and her skin looks great after she used a lot of the hydro chemical creams and Retina A. Now we both feel good knowing we know every ingredient we are putting on our skin and therefore in our bodies!
By carey candrian on 09/26/2009 11:48 am